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| | | Forums66 Topics128,075 Posts1,055,918 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | I've been thinking of how best to go about painting the interior of my '51 and not being a professional painter it looks pretty daunting with all the different things that need interior color. I'm using a factory match 2K Omni paint which is metallic and has to be carefully applied to get an even finish. I think the best way to go would be in two stages:
Stage one would be to mask everything off to protect from overspray and only paint the dash and rear valance (I believe that's what the metal surrounding the rear window is called). That way I can get inside the cab and sweep the gun the entire width of these parts rather than trying to lean in and do half at a time.
Stage two would be to mask off the dash and valance and shoot everything else.
If anyone is willing to share their experience painting the interior of their cab I'd be very appreciative. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 502 | Woody, Valance ?, You mean the back of the cab. Are the doors on the truck and your going to paint the jams?
I know what your up against, to paint everything at the same time means too much overspray usually. Then there's all that masking to paint just parts which I have done to achieve the result I'm after.
The only thing that comes into play using a metallic is the application. You just have to try and duplicate the sane way of applying the paint every time. A little wetter, a little dryer will render a different look. I think I would be using your approach to situation because you don't want to have to deal with what the over spray will ruin.
Dan
Remember your freedom - US Veterans provided it. 101st Screaming Eagles
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 339 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 339 | I used a common JGA DeVilbiss spray gun, spraying the brown metallic, spraying the complete interior with no over-spray problems...I also used clear too...No metallic sag...I did have an exhaust fan running...You do not need hvlp...Just cut Your air pressure down...Bill B. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | Woody, Valance ?, You mean the back of the cab. Are the doors on the truck and your going to paint the jams? Back in the 70s we used to call the part of the interior that surrounds the rear window a valance so that's what I call it... besides I can type that faster The cab is completely gutted with no doors or anything else attached. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | I used a common JGA DeVilbiss spray gun, spraying the brown metallic, spraying the complete interior with no over-spray problems Did you paint the floorboards and behind the gas tank too or just the parts that required the color? Where did you start and end? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | Woody, I think I'd paint the dash last. You want it flawless. That's is what people feel and see first. If you get overspray any place I'd say Not on the dash. You have to worry about hitting your butt on the dash painting your rear valance. I used a detail gun in tight spots on mine which may help too. My 4t6 interior was removed from the truck so I didn't have those issues. Have fun and good luck Dan | | |
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