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I am ready to remove the cab from my 51 3100. I am thinking of removing the steering box and column from the frame so I don't have to lift it so high to get it off.I understand I will need a puller to remove the Pittman arm from the box, but how do I disconnect the bottom of the Pittman arm from the drag link?It looks like there is a real large screw in the end. I have never done this before so I want to be carefull not to ruin anything. Should I mark the Pittman arm and box so it goes back exactly as it was ?? Thanks in advance for your help.

1951 Elmer,

Great question..wish I knew the RIGHT answer. If you unscrew the BIG screw in the end of the drag link, and move the assembly around, the pieces will wiggle out and allow the drag link to pull off the Pittman arm.

I actually don't know if the Pittman arm is keyed to the sector shaft, but I don't think so.

You could take a sharp cold chisel, and stamp a alignment mark across both surfaces of the shaft and arm.

Could you pull the drag link, turn the wheel either way to lock, and measure from a frame point to a point on the arm. Record this reading somewhere for reassembly.

This is a adjustment issue, and marking it for reassembly is convenient, but not critical. There are several ways to center the steering tires AND the wheel after the rig is put back together.

Stuart

If you remove the cotter pin and loosen that slotted screw in the drag link it will let go of the pitman arm. You don't have to separate the pitman arm from the box unless you're replacing the seal or rebuilding the box. Here's that page in the shop manual:

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1948_51truckshop/51ctsm0304.htm

Believe it or not, there is such a thing as a "drag link tool". It is a socket with a blade that will fit that slot on the end of the drag link. Just unscrew it until it falls off. Actually, a large screwdriver will work also. You may still need to pry the pitman arm ball out of the drag link, use that screwdriver!

The pitman arm has a series of large and small splines, so it only goes on in one place, so no worries taking it off and putting it back correctly. As above, you do not have to remove it unless rebuilding the box. It is a bear to remove, also!

Thankyou so much for the valued info. Couldn't do it without you.

Brain,

I usually open my mouth, then research later. I looked in every manual I had to find a reference to installing the pitman arm properly.

Info was very scarce..SO, I went down to the shop and actually looked at the box and pitman arm (separated) on my 4400 truck.

Sure as heck, there were the three little "keys" that you mentioned. It only fits one way...thanks for enlightening me, (and Elmer)!

Stuart

As a safety note, unstall the pitman arm nut a few turns so when the puller and arm pop free, the nut will keep it from hitting your shins!

Your draglink and tie-rods are a ball and socket type joint. There are two sockets, one spring, and one solid stop that will come out of the end when you remove the large screw. Its all real easy to assemble so don't sweat it coming apart. Check the ball end for wear, if its egg shaped, its time for replacements. Check with any of the venders for replacement balls and sockets. Joe

As for pulling the Pitman Arm off the Sector shaft. Don't try thr BFH approach. Doesn't work anyway.
Is you have an Autozone (parts place) in you neck of the woods, they will lend you a Pitman Arm puller for a small security deposit. It will take about 30 seconds to remove that sucker if it's on tight. AND IT"S FREE. In fact, take a look at all those other tools you can 'barrow'.

1950 Chevy 3600, I pulled the Pitman arm on mine, wouldn't come off withe a pully puller so I borrowed an KD pitman arm puller and she finaly slid off.
I'd like some opinions on what I think I'm gonna do when I slide it back on. Been thinking of coating the splin with antiseze, should ease things the next time I need to pull it. Anyone see any problems with this idea??? As far as that goes, I think I'll use it on the tie rod and drag link retainer threads also.
Also I'm replacing the balls on the pitman and third arm. They are swedged over on the back side instead of using a nut. Do you just grind away all of the peened over metal on the back side before you press them out?? I orered balls with the nuts on them as a replacement.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

use a pitman arm puller, i changed my 49 pitman arm and drag link to a 54, the ends are tapered, no more ball and socket

Denny,
there are some threads on removing the ball studs. You will find that there is a small chamfer on the backside of the hole and the swaged material is in there too. Some people drill out the center of the stud to weaken it and others remove a small amount of material from the chamfer. By the way, not all the trucks have room to accommodate the new ball stud thread and nut. Mine is a 1 Ton and there is plenty of room.

Thanks Fred,
I did a search for that but, alas, came up empty handed once more. I've been reading a few pages every day of the past postings to try to catch up, but I’ve got to spend a little time under the old bus or nothing gets done. Man, it sure is an easy way to waste a morning surfing on these computers, but then again, where else could I be tied into so many opinions and tips and just plain good old boys.
Thanks for the tip on the backside chamfer, I'm going to use the hydraulic press to pop the old balls out.
I realize that a lot of this stuff has been covered many times before, but when a newbe like me joins the fold we can’t always find the old material, it would be nice to have a data base to look things up but that would be a full time job to maintain. I’ve participated in a Antique Radio form for about 10 years and some of the old timers get frustrated and expect the new comers to go through and read all of the 300,000+ threads and all the accompanying pages of replies before they ask any questions. Well that might take a year to do with so much material to cover.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

that's the same w/ my 3104.

while you're at it

do this:::::::::::::::::::::::::
UPGRADE
Pittman Arm: Steering Arm: Drag Link: Tie Rod

HINT ::
it does NOT hurt to use anti-sieze on the spline B4 you replace the Pittman Arm.

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