The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks I've got the truck, but it still is an enigma

OK, So I finally got the truck and the VIN checks out as a 66 Chevrolet K10. It does indeed, have a V6 engine with a one barrell carb that looks an aweful lot like pics I've seen of the 305 V6. It even has those goofy plaid valve covers. The plate on the interior on the driver's side lists 6 available engines with HP ratings for each. It lists the 194, 230, 250, 292, 283 and 327.
It is impossible for me to tell if the engine is a transplant from a GMC truck. If it is, it is obvious that the engine has been in the truck for some time. It has the double hydraulic master cylinder that appears to control both the brakes and the clutch. Since the slave cylinder is bad, it appears all the fliud has gone AWOL and it has neither brakes or an operating clutch. To ad insult to injury, both of the spring perches on the axle have the welds broken and the rear axle has spun in the U bolts and seems to have trashed the yoke seal on the diff. My plan is to get the perches re-welded first so I can safely tow it to my garage. The truck is sitting at a local welding shop awaiting monday when I can talk to them. Is my plan sound. Am I on the right track on the priority of things? Any help would be appreciated because I kind of need it to be a daily driver before the snow flies. I have about three good months to work on it. Suggestions please?

TAz,

i seriously doubt the engine would have been a transplant because of the emgine mounts. I'd find it hard to believe that the PO or the PO of the PO (ha) would have taken the time to add the engine mounts. Shoot me some picturs and chec out my web shots link, plenty in there.

BTW the plaid vavle covers are RARE and worth a few nickles, DO NOT DISPOSE OF THEM FOR FREE!!!!

my direct email for questions [email protected]

Jake

never heard of a V6 in a Chevy .... not an engine transplant, but a cab transplant - ie: not actually a Chevy

pictures please

Bill

Here's a link to my photobucket. Hopefully you will be able to view the pics I have so far. Since I don't have a clue and you guys probably know more, I am willing to listen to ANYTHING at this point.
http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/tazshido/1966%20Chevrolet%20K10/

Just from what I can see, looks like the truck is peiced out of several years of trucks. The engine and most likely the chassis are GMC, '60-'62. Even then, I'm inclined to think the engine, or at least the bellhousing/clutch may be from a 2wd, as from what I understand, 4x4s didn't use the hydraulic clutch, which this truck does. The cab is definetly a '64-'66, the badge shape and location points to '65, which is at odds with the serial number.

One thing I do have to disagree with you on, Bill. There was an option for the hydraulic clutch on the 4x4's. My dad has a '63 Chevy with the hydraulic clutch, but from what I understand and have read in Chevy manuals, that was the last year they were used. Most say they were not used past '62, but that is not entirely the case. I will say that it is tough to find anything past '62 with the hydraulic clutch. I agree with you in that on this particular truck the bellhousing/clutch probably helps point to a '60-'62 vintage on the chassis/engine.

Tazshido, you will want to get the numbers off the engine and possibly even the frame to see what year those are exactly. This truck is pieced together and that is the only way you will find exactly what all you have. The cab is a '66, but that engine is definitely GMC and if it looks like it hasn't been monkeyed with on the frame, the chassis would be '60-'62 GMC. Good luck on getting those perches fixed, not much you can do with it until that is taken care of.

Alrighty then, where should I look for more numbers? Is there a spot on the frame where I can find a VIN? Since this is more than likely a frankenstien, there will be no collector value so if I decide later on to drop a more modern engine/transmission into it, I won't be violating my personal policy to leave a stock classic stock.

Tony "4-5-6 Chevy Trucks" is probably the expert here for those years, you might try to PM or mail him, he hasn't checked in for awhile ... I'd be betting you've got what Longbox sez, a mix n match

Bill

I am not sure, if the chassis is truly GMC, but on Chevys there is a VIN stamped into the frame rail. There may be a number stamped on the left outside rail underneath the cab. There may also be another stamped further forward on top of the frame rail. Someone else may be able to shed a little more light on that aspect. If not, then you will just have to crawl underneath and check for numbers.

Top left frame rail near steering box

Bears63, looks like I was mistaken about use of the hydraulic clutch, I could have sworn that I had seen that 4x4s used the mechanical clutch. I just checked the '60 manual, as well as Moses Ludels Chevy and GMC Owners Bible, both agree wit what you said. Ludels book also states that the hydraluc clutch was used in the 4x4 to '63. So it could be a '60-'63 Chassis. I am inclined to think that it's an earlier chassis, the later GMC 6 cylinders used a 2bbl carb. I would have to check a bit further to make sure whan that change was, though.

I've done some crawling and here is what I've been able to find so far, info actually stamped or cast is in "";
The data plate states that the GVW is "5600" Lbs, Trim "STD", Paint "505AA", Wheelbase "127.
There is no VIN stamped anywhere in the cab that I can find.
There is a number stamped on the top of the left (driver's) side frame, just in front of the left engine mount "6S1497". I cannot find the VIN which is on the title anywhere on the truck.
The engine mounts are bolted onto the frame.
The rear axle has "US PAT 2018188" cast on the left side and "80" cast on the right. A mechanic friend of mine seems to think it is not original.
The bed wood appears to have been replaced sometime in it's life. It looks like untreated pine and the wood was not beveled to set the rails flush. The rails are surface rusty but straight and look like they are refinishable.
All in all, I can't complain. It fires up on the first turn of the key using the choke and idles nicely after warm-up with no smoke coming from the tailpipe. The engine sounds strong with a very little tappet noise. I'm thinking that with a valve adjustment, new gas and a good cleaning this thing will run out nicely. That is, after I get the spring perches re-welded, replace the master/slave cylinders and replace the U-joints. Looks like I may need to attend to the yoke seal on the rear diff also. When the perches broke the axle spun in the U-bolts nose down a few degrees and bound up the U-joint. It clicked a bit when we rolled it off the trailer. PO thinks the seal is shot.

The Welding shop got the spring perches welded up and it cost me less than $100. I've decided to replace the master cylinder and the slave cylinder and run new lines. My master cylinder will be here tomorrow (O'Rielly Auto parts) and I've ordered a slave cylinder from LMC.
Anybody out there ever try running braided stainless lines instead of the hard lines? If so, how hard was it to find braided lines that matched up at the fittings. I'm a motorcyclist at heart and braided lines is what I'm used to. If I'm screwed in the head with this idea, again, I am open to constructive criticism and suggestions.

Use hard line. Far less expensive and easier to wrok with. Braided line would be alright at the flex hose points going to the front brakes and rear axle.

I would be a little concerned about the lack of a vin # on the cab. Only because if you ever tried to move out of state or sell it to someone out of state you may not be able to. In fl whenever you bring in a vehicle from another state they have to look at the vin on the vehicle before they will register it. Im no expert and the laws are different everywhere but I thought it might be some useful info someday.

I'll see the DMV and have the VIN stamped on the truck. All I need is an affadavit from the previous owner. That's not really an issue, but I'll keep looking. The title has been with that vehicle for at least two owners so I can't really see it being an issue.

Tazshido, I missed the part where you posted the VIN off the frame. That tells us a few things. The portions of the VIN stamped on the frame are the year, assembly plant, and sequential number. So, if what you posted are truly the first two items in the number then you have a '66 frame and the original truck was put together in St. Louis.

Now, you still have a GMC engine that has apparently been grafted in some time ago. You will still need to get the numbers off the engine to get that nailed down on a year. Also, if you want to better ID the front and rear differentials it would help to post some pictures.

Finally, the original VIN plate on the cab should be in the door jamb. Open the driver's door and look straight up at the jamb. That's where it should be on a '66 cab.

Hi Guys, just for your info I recently purchased a 1964 Chev. 60 series truck and guess what ? it has the Hydraulic Clutch. Ans it appears to be factory stock. Butch

Bigger trucks retained the hydraulic clutch but most light duty trucks did away with it after '62. That's how I understand it to be anyway.