The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Would like to have your feed back on your garage

All,
I finally got the green light from my queen,to as she calls it, "build a place to put all my crap". So as I get ready and begin to make plans, I thought I would as the vast years of experence here for things to consider in the floor plan or features. Now mind you I am not building the garage mahall. But I want to take into consideration things like placement of compressor, welder, work bench, and perhaps even as they relate to the door openings and even the placement of the doors is still under consideration.
Any one us any good garage kits?? I see a lot of those on the market.
Any advice or experences will be appreciated.

Garages are never big enough. Go all out or as far as you can. I wish I had a "utility room" for my compressor to keep it clean. A 1/2 bath, (stool and shower) could keep you out of trouble with tracking dirt into her majesties domain too.

What Vern said plus build it high enough to get a vehicle up on a lift and a floor drain for washing in the winter,wet sanding or just washing down the floor.
Had a buddy that did this a few decades ago and his was a four car square garage with the bath, crapper and utility room. We also hung an I-beam across the width of the garage for a hoist trolly.
Wish I were thirty years younger and knew then what I know now. I would have built the model auto shop like my buddy instead of building a hanger and a couple of airplanes.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Not sure how cold it gets in the winter there but you may want to consider some type of heating system. Also, as mentioned, plumb for water...if not for a bathroom at least for a utility sink.

You can have all sorts of utility drops for power and air, or you can make troughs having diamond deck cover plates. This allows you to run whatever you need under the floor- power, air, water, phone, etc.

If you are expecting this area to be wetted down, you wouldn't want to trough it, though.

Watch Man Caves on TV. I've seen some pretty clever garage innovations there.

Bill

If you can put the welding table by the garage door, and preferably one outside too, then every chance you get do your grinding and welding outside, saves a bunch of mess and grit in the shop.

My garage has a floor drain, which is OK in the winter when the snow melts off the car. But if I were to build a garage I think a more level floor to roll stuff around on would be better, and sacrifice the floor drain.

Outlets above workbench height and every 8' or so would be good, on numerous different circuits.
Go ahead and run the 220V wire in the ceiling (or floor) for a lift.

Plenty of lights and paint the walls some sort of white to help too.

Think of storage. My solution was some pallet racking on the back wall and a forklift to load and unload it. Great for storing engines, transmissions, and other big heavy and bulky stuff, even have the the cab for the 48 on the shelf right now.

Haven't installed it yet, but I'll try the air compressor in a lean-to shed outside. It can be really aggravating to have it in the shop.

Grigg

If you pour a slab add 3 or 4 feet on the outside for your compressor. You can also build a lean-to, over hang there for scrap pieces of lumber.

One thing I forgot to mention was if your planing on a lift, now is the time to increase the thickness of the slab to atleast 6" in the area where you will mount the lift. That's my problem right now.
DG

i just built mine last year and have enjoyed it every day since. i built mine as big as the city would allow and as tall as they would allow. i also put in several 220 outlets since i have several 220 machines. i wish i had put in more light and heat but i will do that down the road. i did a 5" floor throughout the whole garage and a lot of extra steel rebar, especially in the center. i don't know if i will ever get a lift but i think it could handle it.
i also built the pad 12" off the ground so i had to bring in several dump truck load of rock to fill to the right hight. i also built a shelf around the top all the way around for storage. i also got a wide overhead door and even added a extra panel for height. i say don't skimp on the basics, you can always add the other stuff later.

Try this SITE they do a good job of answering this type of question, however they are built with members that may also be members here.

We built our shop two years ago, size does matter!

Things to consider when planning:

Codes and Permits:

Size allowed.
How close to the property line and other structures can you build.
How high can the roof line be.
Utility locations
Access
Type of material to be used
Length of driveway (concrete/asphalt can be expensive)


Type of construction:
Block walls
Stick built
Kit
Post and beam
Open space
Office or storerooms
Green
Roof type
Siding type
Finished or unfinished space
With or without loft
Windows/skylights
With or without bathroom
Garage door type


Use:
Hobby/storage
Hobby/heavy
Hobby/business
Wife's sewing/craft


Needs:
Space for parking family car/s
Space for family car/s and project truck
Space for family car/s and space to work on project car/truck
Work shop
Lift
Engine pulling from beam



Electrical needs:
100 amp or 200 amp or just use a branch circuit from main panel
Enough power for:
Basic lighting and a few tools
To operate small hand tools/small compressor/basic lighting
To operate a 7 hp compressor/welder/machines/lot's of lighting
Amount of work benches/work areas



HVAC Needs:
Just natural ventilation
Mechanical ventilation
Heating and ventilation
Complete HAVC system


Water:
For bathroom
For inside sink
For outside washing
For washing machine


From our build, we were not allowed floor drains per code, even though I wanted them. We also ran into fire protection requirements die to square footage and or type of structure. I made sure we had plenty of outside water faucets for washing the vehicles, cleanup etc. We did install a full bath with shower. We also installed a shop sink for washing. We ran 200 amps for the electrical use and I placed outlets almost every four feet in working areas and more in heavy use areas, maximum 4 outlets per 20 amp breaker. We included storage areas and a separate wood shop area.

You may have to set your outlets above the vapor height (minimum 18" but LCJ may require 48") because of the classification garage. find out where they will require GFCI outlets. Make sure you have a few ceiling mounted receptacles for hanging lights, garage door opener or beer signs. It is better to have one wide door than to have two eight foot door openings. Flatbeds have a hard time driving into an eight foot opening. Consider a nine foot high or more door to allow for larger vehicles. We also installed several skylights for improving the day lighting and they really work. I also brought in a phase converter for the wood shop tools. I installed the welder outlets near the door opening for easy access for welding either inside or outside.

Consider putting in some extra conduits for future use: well, outside compressor, outside driveway lights etc. The same goes for the water pipes: irrigation, pond or fountain. Put a conduit in the ground across your driveway for future access too.

I used supply house lighting fixtures (much better than home depot lights) I installed 8' 2 lamp HO (high output fluorescent lighting) above the work bays and 4' 2 and 4 T8 lamp fixtures over the work benches machines. Allow for at least one walk through door in an area that won't be blocked with your vehicles. If you have more than one door, make sure that you have three way switches at the doors for easy turning on and off lighting.

We chose to use a industrial epoxy coating for the floor, it really cleans up nicely.

Don't think about everything you should have.My garage is 30 yrs old and I have moved stuff, changed stuff, and wished for more about 30 times.

Here is pictures inside my new "garage" when I had a party last January. That night was -17 degrees and we were all nice and toasty. I set the thermostat to 66 degrees and by the end of night it was 69 degrees.

http://dakotacountrydanceclub.org/album.php?album=100&page=1&strip=2

It's a 36'x56'x14' Menard's pole building, 2" foam under the 5" slab with in floor radiant heat (I put that in myself and built my manifold/boiler system). I also have an extra loop to put underneath the outside slab so I can temporarily rob shop heat to ice melt the outside slab and sidewalk. I caulked all the wall seams on the outside, Spray foam on all the wall seams and around all doors and windows, BIBS insulation (blown in fiberglass), R24 in the walls and R50 in the ceiling, two 12x12 doors and two walk in industrial doors. Cost = a lot, but reasonable. Warm feet = priceless.

What I would suggest is to build a ceiling tall enough for a lift, but not necessarily the whole building. You could build two different ceiling heights. Kind of like two different buildings back to back. Less to heat. I am building mezzanines in my shop to help get things off the floor. By making use of the upper space in my shop I can get more items in the shop and in climate controlled areas. I can even place a car or truck on the mezzanine if I want. Those objects will also hold heat and technically make the shop cheaper to heat. I put my outlets 4.5' from the floor and also put my conduit under the slab to clean up the walls. I have a small bathroom with waterproof panels. The bathroom doubles as a shower. Buy a 30 gallon water heater over a small 5-8 gallon water heater. It costs just as much (sometimes more) to keep a small water heater going as it does a 30-40 gallon. I built a cabinet where the doors are small insulated walls that swing out. This houses my air compressor and keeps it quieter inside the shop. I figure I am more likely to service it in the winter if it is warm too. I also like warm air in the winter, and any accumulation of water won't freeze in the bottom of my tank. If you look at the pictures, my windows are at the top of the shop walls. This lets better light in and helps a bit with security. On the floor, I used a "bridge" sealer with some grit. It is an epoxy that absorbs into the cement and fills any cracks and cuts in the floor (works great for older floors). I used a squeegee to apply it. The surface of the epoxy may come off after heavy use, but since it is absorbed into the cement, it will still stop oil from soaking in.

Looks like a little "Texas 2 step"

one step, two step, three step, east coast and west coast swing, freestyle and stationary cha cha, nightclub two, waltze, hustle and the south dakota ho down.

cool garage! it might take, even me a true junker, a while to fill that one up.

Put a 13 foot fence around your property, and put a roof on it . Maybe then it will be big enough. Cause usually they never are.

I put outlets everywhere I could and recommend it as you will change your configuration so many times. Put them on the walls at about waist height that way you don't have to crawl on your belly like a reptile to plug something in. I have them on the bottom of the trusses to run my lighting and drop down in the center areas of the shop. Panel should allow for 220 expansion as you wil probably want a large compressor/ mig at some point. Simply put, you can't have enough power! Watch your security and use good locks(medco) and doors without windows. I have 3 windows on the front to match the home cosmetic wise, put some higher end security window tint/film on them...resist smashing and keeps eyes from seeing in. Reduces heat from the summer sun as well. Hope this helps ya!

Hank

Hank

Good advice Hqnk. Security is probably one of the 5 or 6 most important issues you face in building a workshop. If you will have a bunch of tools you would like to keep you better "harden the target". Another important item to consider is insulation. You guys in the north have the cold to contend with and those of us in the south/west have the heat to deal with.
I will stuff the walls with fiberglass between the 6" studs. Then I'll put 1/2 plywood on the walls. If they try to cut their way through to wall they will have that plywood resisting them. I will probably have the solar shield radiant barrier installed in the attic.

I'd definitely have:

A compressor closet so I wouldn't have to listen to it

Plenty of places to connect an air hose

Plenty of 20 amp 120v outlets scattered around

Some 240 outlets, amperage depending on what I have or might have

If it was close and cheap in install, a 3 phase service (lots of 3 phase machine tools seem to sell very cheap on craigslist)

At least a sink if not a small bathroom

A larger sink with hot water for cleaning parts such as a carb after soaking in carb cleaner

Some sort of heat, probably a wood stove

Acoustic insulation if you're close enough to the neighbors to generate too many complaints

I'd really like a home made gantry crane as it would make things like removing a cab easy to do by yourself

I recommend www.garagejournal.com. They have all kinds of different ideas on the ultimate garage.

RaceCarl, I checked out the site link you provided briefly. Interesting stuff there. Lots of ideas, sume real "purty" garages in the photos of the double/ 2 car thread. Some of those guys are into man caves more so than a functional shop. Purty walls with stripes, floor tiles with the checkered flag, etc. Heck, I'd be scared to change the oil in a couple of them. Overall, a interesting site that I want to explore a little more. Thanks for the link.

I also cannot imagine doing any work in some of those garages. One drip of ATF would be cause for a call to Hazmat.

Some of those guys would freak out if they saw the shop I used to work in all the time. It was especially bad the day I fired up a 4450 John Deere tractor and forgot to hook up the turbo oil feed line. A stream of dirty diesel engine oil about 3/8" in diameter shot straight up, hit the ceiling 20' above and dispersed mainly over my bay. Luckily I got it shut down quickly, but boy what a mess.

I did see one photo of a shelf placed above the garage door and plan to utilize that waisted space in my shop. You are right on the money RaceCarl, I think some of those guys need to tell the wife they are moving back into the house and convert it back to a garage.

I built my second dream garage for home a couple of years ago. It's 2800 sq ft, has a 10' OVH door and one 12' OVH door, both insulated aluminum units. The building is a post design with full insulation and the top 2' on 2 shop walls have plexi type clear siding to let in a lot of light. The ceiling is covered in white steel to reflect it. Lots of 8' fluorescent lights with separate switches for each row to control costs. The floor is 5" of steel mesh and rebar reinforced 4000 psi concrete. No drain. I once had a commercial shop with floor drains and creepers would roll away. No good! Don't do it.
Squeegee brooms are cheap. I placed 200 amp service in this building and have both 110V and 220V outlets in abundance. I also built a 15x30 office with full bath and a walk-in closet for storage. My air compressor and generator are located in a small space out of the way and out of the noise area. I have yet to run the 1/2" black steel piping for the air and am using a portable at the present. My workbenches are located in separate woodshop and weld/fab areas of the floorplan and I have a rear entrance and a couple of windows. Built in overhead racks for lumber, etc. and a ton of other stuff yet to do. It is big enough and tall enough for my lift but I'm thinking of getting rid of it so it's laying outside. I have a tile floor in the office and a 16' x 8' porch with planters and lawnchairs - perfect spot for an evening breeze and brew. I still intend to build a gas station island complete with pumps (I restore them) and also a soda shop area for the jukebox and goodies.
Yes I know it sounds terrific and many would kill for it but it's really just a place to hang, tinker and do a little business so a lot of places would work as well.

Then I had to build a 24x32 storage building to keep the junk and tractors in. It was just in the way.

My advantage is that I've owned commercial shops, built some and have never really been satisfied but I've learned a lot. If ever in the area feel fee to drop by.
Cheap beer and free bulls&*t.

Dave:
How about some pics of this Taj Ma Hall?

It's on my website

Moneypit,

Who is the manufacturer on your lubesters? I ask because I just secured one to go with my pump and oil caddys. If you purchased parts...who were the vendors you recommend?

Not meaning to hyjack this thread.

Hank

Sorry Hank, I almost never come into this forum so I just saw your question. I looked them over and they are different brands or appear to be. Nothing on either one as to the maker, just L-2 on one and Made in the USA on the other. One has 3 truss bolts and the other has 4. Tank lids say nothing either. Many were made by the oil companies themselves sort of like Gulf building it's own pumps. I haven't had the need to buy any parts for them as both work.

Thanks Dave, mine works good at this time, just needs a little tlc and some paint.

Here's something to add that distinctive touch to your garage door;

http://www.style-your-garage.com/eu/?id_lc=25

What's next, I hope this isn't too far off topic.

Larry

Like the beach one, get a little Jimmy B. or Chesney and an adult beverage and I'm there

Between the numerous hangars, aircraft shops, welding shops, garages, etc., I have been in or worked in I have a good idea what I'd build for MY uses. But really folks have covered the essentials.
Right now I'm relegated to a 10x12 shed, and the 10x5 storage on the end of our half collapsing car port. I LOVE renting! ugh,...

Anyway, my list:
Good lighting, light interior colors on all surfaces.
Lots of outlets, 110 & 220.
Underfloor or overhead radiant heat, and for cooling a couple greenhouse fans on the walls.
Commercial grade epoxy coating on the floor
Storage loft w. overhead hoist
Outdoor enclosure for air compresor
A water closet w. shower
Reserved space with a couch, a TV, and a fridge full of my favorite frosty cold libations!

I find the key to getting into my garage is to think it out. Don't get into a rush just because you have the building up, but think about all the shelf space and cabinets, etc. to accommodate storing all the items you will have in there. With no shelves, everything has to go on the floor, and that eats up all your space. Keep as much stuff off the floor as you can, put as much equipment on wheels as you can, and don't start ripping your truck apart until you have the inside of the shop finished too. Keep you vehicles out of the way of building/finishing your shop. Otherwise, you are just moving your stuff from one spot to another. It's enough work to do it once and with that stuff out of the way.

id suggest an "office area"; some where to keep clean, keep your notes and research, internet access, a table for drawing out visions or ideas; that kind of stuff. ill admit that i love a good coat of grease and sweat, but after or before when im gearing up for the next thing its nice to have my own place where im in charge, a buddy of mine built a loft so that he could look out over his shop from the office. also i love the foxhole stations (the one where you drive over the hole)they dont seem to be so common any more, and truth be told ive only seen one in a residential, but it helps if your doing something that you have to be under the car and need some help from above at the same time. peg board is pretty good for keeping handtools, and you cant forget the tunes and beer! and always keep a good collection of ZZ top, Sammy Hagar, Kiss, Johny Cash, and the beach boys. but remember you have neighbors, so make sure your system can go loud enough for them to hear it clearly! lol

Speakin of the fox hole stations,... I always look at the local Jiffy-Lube place with it's basement storage racks and holding tanks in envy. just need to add an easy to remove cover system for when it's not needed, but having a full basement with lots of shelving & access to the underside of your rigs wouldbe pretty sweet. Keeps the above ground building smaller as well.

When I built my commercial truck shop my insurance company vetoed the idea of a drive over pit, er, foxhole as you are now calling it. (Having been in a few I can tell you it is NOT a foxhole, but I digress.) Point is, check with your insurance carrier before you dig it and buy all the concrete. They didn't think it was safe because of oil and grease entrapment, i.e., a fire hazard. Foolish to me too but there you are.

The local jiffy type place here has pits as well as a walk out basement, it's on the top of a hill with an outside door for the pits.
Haven't been inside to look, but can see the door driving by. That may be a way to have the pit and satisfy the insurance folks?

Grigg

If I was going to build another shop I would put a floor drain from one end to the other so if the need arises one stall can be cleaned and leave everything else alone. It could run out into a flower bed and not involve city codes. The slope could be gradual yet effective. As you get older you will see the need of a bathroom.

build garage as big as your pocket book,build high enoughto put 2 levels in it. after you build your upper level,rest of shop measure up 6.5 feet draw a line around shop less the door area put ashelf inthat to stick out from the wall to set pallets on New storage space also weld big square hooks yo get steel and wood off of floor put stuff on pallets 6.5. feet above floor and steel on the hooks long ways 2 problems solved. 12 by 12 doors facing south and east i have 125 110volts plugs 10 240 plugs 6 440 plugs air piped thruout bldg. with a outlet every 10 foot4 tables 20 by 4 by4 4 tables 8by 4by 4 robertbandit

Got a picture or is this a dream?