The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Interior Paint

Have a 49 Thriftmaster. Would like to repaint the door hinges which show some chips . I believe the color is called champagne. Same color as the dash. Does anyone sell this color in aerosol form? Would be so much easier to repaint for such a small job.

Thanks.

Use PPG DBC/DBI #27467, what I would suggest is having them mix you up a pint and spray it with a Preval sprayer kit, they’re about four or five bucks at any auto paint supplier, some hardware and most hobby shops. Or you can order them on line at a distributor of your choice, here’s one for instance; http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2600
The paint you can probably order online also, someplace like TCP Global; http://www.tcpglobal.com/ they would also have the Preval sprayer kits; http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/preval.aspx

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thank you for the information.

If the paint is like my 1946 chev big bolt then try the rust oliumn paint # 7272. it's a dead ringer to what I have for color and it has a matalic tint to it. It works great for me.

I don’t know if I would call it a dead ringer but the Rustolium 7272 Dark Bronze Metallic is very close. In fact if you had nothing to compare it to I doubt if any judges or anyone else could tell the difference. The PPG 27467 color is the modern offset color from the original Ditzler 31104 color for the interiors of the Advance Design trucks from 1947-53.
Here are some color chips I made up a while back that compare the different paints that I’ve tried.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/123580718/large
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/ad_interior&page=7

All of these colors including the original color look different depending on the light source. Each one looks like a different color in sunlight or florescent or incandescent and now we go the LED light coming in to use.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Take Denny's advice and get the PPG 27467. To the best of my knowledge the Rustolium color is only available in an aerosol, and the stuff they sell at Classic Parts (Ultra 7000) is like $60 a quart plus you have to buy a gallon of "stabilizer" for $70 which they don't sell.

The PPG color is available in acrylic enamel and IMO your most cost effective product, not to mention a direct reformulation of the original color.

Glad to see you back from your winter vacation Woody. We missed your input.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

I ain't dead yet.

Denny Graham you owe me $27! I went yesterday to get my paint and copied down the paint code from your first post... 26467 and it's wrong! :mad:

So if anyone else is reading this the correct code is 27467 and is correct in his second post.

In the meantime if anyone wants a quart of PPG Omni single-stage "Creamy Beige 26467" I know where you can pick one up cheap.

Now if you'll excuse me I have to drive 40 miles so I can get the right color.

BTW, Denny, I still love you... My cut off point for retribution is $30

Hey Woody. I will ship my cab over to you. I would like the Creamy Beige 26467 painted in my interior. And I will give you $30

Now Woody, I did say to pick up a pint see, so that way you only would have been out $13.50. Hey seriously, I'm sorry about that I do have a bit of a problem with dyslexia.

Try a can of the Rustolium before you spend another $27, it worked for the engine paint dint it????

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Boy puleeze... Rustolium for the engine? Only the best stuff for my baby

Just got back with a quart of the right color and am headed out to my spray booth (carport) to lay some of this stuff down before it rains.

Will you do my cab at the same time? I would like it done before the rain

Please let us know what you think Woody. I've had about a half dozen reports from the guys and all have said they thought it was very close to the original paint. If you're using the DBU/DBI it should leave you with somewhat of a saten finish. According to the PPG dealer when used alone with no clearcoat the DBC base coat is designated DBI for interior.
And once again, sorry about the bum steer earlier.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Didn't get any down today but I did look in the can and it's definitely not beige!

A few days ago I painted my grille bars PICTURE and succeeded in getting a run in one :mad: so I decided to finish that project before going further. Tomorrow I hope to have the grille assembled so I can hang it up and get it off the floor.

Anyone interested in the grille project here's a LINK

Once that project is finished I'm going to paint some interior parts to get a look at the color and then attack the interior. I'm not looking forward to the mess that wet sanding everything is going to make but it's unavoidable to keep the project moving.

Once the interior is painted I'm going to install the gas tank, gauge cluster and ignition switch and anything else that will need to go in so I can check all the systems when we fire the engine up.

Stay tuned.

I ran a test today on the paint which I got from my PPG dealer. They told me it was only available in the Omni line, but I've used the Omni line before and found no issues. It's Acrylic urethane 2k.

Not wanting to ruin the inside of my cab I started with some trim pieces. Here's what I found.

It's definitely a beautiful color, pretty dark and much more graphite than brown with a lot of very, very fine silver metallic. The color is quite neutral and won't clash with most colors you could use to paint the exterior. I would definitely not call it a flat or satin finish, not startling glossy but more glossy than satin.

I used a DeVilbiss Starting Line detail gun with a 1.0 mm tip, the same gun I use for all my small jobs. That's when the fun started.

The paint is VERY thin and translucent. The first parts I sprayed were the door hinge access panels. Expecing to apply a tack coat and follow up with a wet coat I discovered that you MUST apply this paint in several light coats otherwise it's just going to puddle on you like THIS. Needless to say those parts will have to be sanded and repainted.

Then I adjusted my technique and painted the trim panels that go on each side of the bottom of the seat frame. Holding the gun a good foot away I misted on about four light coats and got an excellent finish. By applying the paint in several light coats the metallic doesn't sink to the bottom and the finish is smooth and even. I found it flowed out very nice with no dry rough areas.

For all the paint pros out there, forgive me if this is common knowledge. I just wanted to share yet another of my "beginner's experiences" in the hopes it may be of some use to others like me.

Someone is BS'ing you Woody, if they are a full PPG paint dealer then they should have been able to mix up the Deltron like I’ve been posting. That paint number is what was mixed for me in the Deltron system DBC/DBI that covers nicely in two coats. One coat of DBC/DBI actually covers but of course 2 or 3 are better for wear. That has been the complaint I’ve heard about Omni from several users, i.e., you need a bunch of coats to cover. I shot my steering wheel with Omni early last year and hit it with about 4 to 6 coats. By the end of the season it was showing some wear where your hands slide.

If that's to glossy for you simply add a little flattener. I kind of like the satin finish and in fact if I had bought the truck new back in the day I probably would have used a little compound on the exposed surfaces to give it a little shine. I got stiffed with a quart or interior paint from JC a couple of years ago and it was so flat it looked like they had scooped up some mud from the river bottom for pigmentation.
If you had some of the original interior paint for a match, I think you would find this formula very close. Since you're an artiest you’re well aware of how light affects the subject. This paint on all the different contours looks different in every light that you view it under, as does the original paint. I have it sprayed in some areas of my interior and have left the original paint in others. In certain light they look identical and in others it looks to dark and sometimes to light. You have to keep in mind that this formula is an offset to the original Ditzler formula and that today’s color pigments are different, as are the resins, as are the metallics.
If that was mixed correctly in DBC/DBI it should be very close to the original color.
This color presents the same situation as the engine color debate. For every person who feels he has a perfect match you will find a hundred people who will view it in a different light. Our eyes all view color a tiny bit different than the next guy.

If you haven't been thru the steering column/wheel/shifter exercise yet and intend on matching that one perfectly, you’re really in for fun. I've been fighting with that one for more that a year now. I've looked at about a dozen original mast jackets and not one of them is exactly the same. Some are darker, some are lighter, some are gray, some are more purple, some are more brown. I've had four different paint dealers try their hand at a match to my original sample, which was in excellent condition and all of them are off, by just a little. In the end I’ve had to settle on the closest match but I’m keeping my original mast jacket on the shelf for future reference. So just for those parts alone I’ve got close to several hundred bucks worth of paint in the cabinet. If you haven’t seen the comparison there are a couple of pictures on this page: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/steering&page=7

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks for the tips Denny, once I get a good look at the sheen on a flat surface I'll make a decision on the flattener agent.

I LOVE the color and based on an original sample It's very close so the color issue is no longer in question. If anyone tells me the color is wrong I'll ask to see their truck and if they don't have one I'll point them in the direction of a snake infested swamp. If they do have a truck I'll find something wrong and point it out and see how they like it. Remember that mine is not a VCA restoration, it's a driver that I'm building in my carport with a limited budget, no tools and time pressures.

As for the application, once I adjusted my technique I actually found it to be much more forgiving than what I'm used to. In my experience there is a fine line between a smooth glossy finish, runs and orange peel, but by misting a paint that still flows you simply cannot get a run or orange peel and that's a real plus for guys like me that lack the experience to get down a perfect finish through years of experience. I am an amateur

As for durability, we'll just have to wait and see but since it's not going to get a lot of wear being inside the cab I'm not concerned.

As for the color of the steering mast and shifter (floor, I assume) that's a different story to be continued.

I assumed that you have a column shift, right??? You know that the floor shift SM420 shifter was black.
Denny G

No column shift, just an SM420. Thanks for clearing that up.

Woody, I used the same paint as you with the same results. The second attempt of the same parts was a little better but still "smokey". Thanks to help I got here I tried the same color code in a base coat/ clear coat. The color coat has come out perfectly each time. I am still struggling with the clear coat, mostly putting it on too thick and getting runs that don't show up right away. To my untrained eyes, I cannot tell any difference between the single stage and BC/CC when both are properly applied. The color on both looks exactly the same to me.

Based on my experience I should be a better painter than I am. I think I have screwed up every way possible only to learn a new way to make a mistake on my next try.

Chuck

Chuck,

I'm sure there are a lot of guys here that can relate to your experiences, I know I can.

I'm pretty confident with my metal fabrication skills but with that behind me I'm sure I'll be getting a lot of On The Job Training with future projects and who knows what failures lie ahead.

Chuck if you using PPG DBC/DBI when applied as an interior finish you do not apply a clear coat over the base. You can use the base as a single stage paint but it will not have the high gloss that you get with the clear coat. Used that way you will leave a satin finish to the interior paint. If you're using a single stage system like Concept DCC then you will need to add a flattener to the paint.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, I used the Omni line which is all the local PPG dealer offered. The paint dealer told me I could use the base coat by itself as you suggested but said all the UV protection was in the clear coat. They did say I could add flattener (chalk dust?)to the clear but I would have to mix that in myself. After trying the straight clear on a few small parts I decided to use it. I actually prefer the gloss look. The summer sun is brutal here and I thought the UV protection would be important.

Chuck

Like I told Woody in a PM. I used DBC/DBI so you guys are using a different system and will have to experiment till you get what satisfies you. I'm not a paint expert just did some research on the original Ditzler paint numbers and reporting what worked for me and half dozen others on the forum.
Denny G

Out of curiosity, what does DBU/DBI stand for?

Been tryin’ to get this posted since 03:34 and I keep getting interrupted.
But you know how when you get old and ya got way to many irons in the fire and you can't find the right branding iron to use next??? That's what's happenin' on this side of the screen Woody.
The correct designation is PPG Deltron DBC/DBI. The tech sheet is P-175. I did all this research a couple of years ago and when you guys start asking about it I'm trying to drag it up from my memory. I answer a lot of questions and if I went back a researched every one in detail I'd be on the confuser all night long instead of just spending 6-8 hours a day on it.
Like anything you read on one of these forums, you have to take it with a grain of salt no matter who is posting it. And you have to do some research, some back tracking and some double-checking for yourself to verify what is posted before you make your first move.

I'll try to go back and correct the nomenclature in the earlier postings from DBU/DBI to DBC/DBI.

From what I was told and what the ‘P’ sheet says and what I've been able to dig out of the online info, DBC and the DBI use the same Mixing Service. Deltron is called DBC when used with a clear coat and called DBI if used as an interior finish, which does not need a clear coat. It would be my guess that the DBC is short for Deltron Base Clear and the DBI might stand for Deltron Base Interior.
And once again I have absolutely no idea what’s available in the Omni line or what the application sheets say about it’s use, so your on your own with that paint system, it’s another ball game.
Well I’m over due for my nap, over!
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL