The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Bed mounting blocks

I need the dimentions of the bed mounting blocks. A friend has a 1949 3100 short box and we can't find them. Also how many blocks are there?

Thanks
beebee

You can order them from Jim Carter probably just about as cheap as you can make them.

Link to page 12 of the catalog.

I know that we can get them but my friend wants to make them

beebee

The after market ones I bought are
2 1/4"x 2 1/4"x 2 1/4"

I dont have originals to measure

youll need 4ea

That's the diamentions I was looking for.

Thanks
beebee

Factory ones were cut from pine...yellow pine I believe. Prior post is on the money with dimensions and number you will need. Plan to place a new piece of a rubber tire inner tube cut to size between each block and the frame on mine. Not factory spec...just my plan for what it is worth.
Hank

Great info

thanks
beebee

Might even be cheaper to buy them, but a lot of the fun of these old trucks to me is what you can make to work/fit on your own with not a lot of expensive shop equipment.

I do believe these old trucks were designed to be rebuilt in a corn field.
My son bought an 1974 International Scout II and is planing on restoring it. Trucks keep getting more and more complicated these days.

Hankdogg i agree I like to make things work and I think thats the way it was done with these trucks on the farm.

Thanks for all the info guys I have all that i need for my friend

beebee

I wouldn't put any rubber between the bed and the frame Hank. You really don't want the bed to move around, putting a soft material in between would allow it to shift.
But then again, I wouldn't mount the fenders to the bed sides with welting or anti-squeek either. Some how the engineers at GM had this all figured out 60 years ago.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

beebee,

Have you seen the pick-up bed mounts here:
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/articles/TIPS/ChevTruckTIPS/Tip103A.pdf

Thanks guys, this is what I need. I know you can buy them cheaply, but I want to make them myself. Our truck project took a hiatus this spring while my 82 year old dad and I took out a huge maple stump by his house. I saved some chunks of it, and already made him a new gearshift knob from it. Just thought it would be fun, and memorable for us, to make these as well. I know he won't be around forever, so I want to build memories like this when possible.

I was reading somewhere on this forum that the wood was 1" (3/4")? I'm wondering if the original board would not have been 7/8" thickness at that time? I can remember 2 x 4s being 1 3/4" x 3 3/4", then they went down to 1 5/8" by 3 5/8" to the present 1 1/2 x 3 1/2". I'm thinking back at the time these trucks were new the 1" boards would have been 7/8" thick. John

or maybe if they're said to be 1" .... they're 1"?

Bill

Larry,

I made the blocks for my Suburban out of seasoned Maple. I used the bed mounting pads cut to the size used on the panel-body mounts.

The reason I figured 7/8" was this would allow the board to be groved the same as the rest where it fit under the strips along the bed sides then. So all the strips would be even then. It was noted in a link that the 3/4" boards just fit under the outside strips and were not grooved.
John

John, the boards on the outside are/were not grooved, but the sheet metal angles are level with the skids, because they sit slightly above the board the same as the 'humps' on the skid strips, so cargo doesn't slide on the wood .... from any original wood I've seen it always has been 3/4" - and I'd expect MarK to be selling 7/8" bed wood rabbeted for the edge angle if that's what was original [their oak is actually 25/32", not sure about the pine]

Bill

Since I enjoy working with wood, I decided to make my own. Sorta got the idea from the previous thread. I have a hunk of oak that is just shy of 2" thick and I know the blocks are 2 1/4". Will it work if I put on a thicker pad? What should the overall height be and are the drilled holes dead center? Steve