The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Where To Buy Lowering Springs???

I have a '62 C10 that if I have done my homework correctly then I should be able to drop 3" in the front & 4" in the rear with springs alone.

Where can I get the best deal on drop springs? This is my first C10 so please excuse my ignorance. I'm a old VW guy that happened upon this '62 C10 that I'm wrenching on now.

you will not be able to get that amount of drop in just springs. Usually 1-2" before you need to change parts to get things back into alignment is the rule of thumb.

That's odd, everyone and thier sister is selling springs that claim anywhere from 1 to 5" drop. Are all these businesses full of poop or is it my imagination??

spindle drop...yes, but I don't think so in springs. Someone help me out here to!!

Imho, scott has wise advise. I would also talk to a professional alignment shop. But think about how much wheel travel you have, if you are just putting shorter springs in, say 5", where is the a-arms going to be in their travel? & @ that, when they travel they do change alignment. (Just look @ the pivot points of the a-arms & ball joints)& how much travel will be left?

I would certainly look into lowered spindles for your truck,then go from there.
To lower your truck that far purely with springs will open up a new world of bumpsteer and possibly ball joint bind/failure.

A few (too many) years back when working on VWs I discovered lowered spindles,they were a revelation!
They keep the steering arms at the correct angle and give a 2 1/2" drop straight off, with no bumpsteer/travel problems.
I then installed the Sway-a-ways(VW speak) in the front beam for the fine tuning/lowering.

LMC, Brothers, etc. sell lowering springs AND spindles AND C-notch kits.
As others have said, there are consequences which must be addressed for safe and enjoyable driving. It's do-able.
You could also bag it.

cm

I have been worried about bagging as I don't want to be stranded with some kind of air delivery failure. I just want to truck to have a nice sporty stance with out all the mechanical BS associated with lowering a truck. Assistance and direction is always appreciated! Thanks!

Good advice so far. I try to stay FAR away from suspension height alteration threads, mainly because all the self-appointed experts on the subject on this forum really don't want to hear from someone who has made his living fixing and/or teaching suspension systems for the past 50+ years. They're smarter than the engineers who designed these old trucks- - -if you don't believe it just ask!

Once suspension systems get beyond simple straight-axle assemblies, changing ride height involves major geometry alterations, and virtually none of them improve a system's performance. Even raising/lowering a straight-axle truck's ride height can produce nasty bump-steer surprises without some serious steering geometry knowledge. When an owner radically raises or lowers a vehicle's ride height the system is put into a situation where what would normally be a momentary set of operating conditions during suspension jounce or rebound becomes the normal operating position. That position will probably produce unwanted thrust vectors and other problems which exaggerate bump steer or Ackerman angles, or produce unpredictable roll responses when an unexpected sharp turn is encountered. A raised or lowered vehicle can be made to track pretty well in a straight line, but handling in turns and the response to bumps can be unpredictable and downright hazardous. Even "lowering spindles" change the scuff radius so that tires are being dragged around a turn instead of pivoting on an imaginary point created by a line drawn through the ball joints and the tread centerline. Combine those angular changes with altered tread centerlines from different-offset wheels to account for wider-than-normal tires, and the geometric relationship of the steering and suspension systems becomes a big guessing game.

Raise or lower the ride height a maximum of 1 inch, and try to stay within the same 1 inch tolerance on wheel center offset, and original alignment angles will work pretty well. Beyond those points, a total re-engineering of the steering and/or suspension would be required for safe, predictable operation. Adjusting caster and camber might get close to proper operation, but there are no guarantees you'll be able to compensate for your modifications. Grafting on a later-model suspension system, with little or no modifications and setting the desired ride height in the process by tweaking the attaching points to the original frame would be the safest method, and will produce the most predictable handling characteristics.
Jerry

What Jerry Said......

10-4, loud and clear. However, I do respect all the input but I am struggling with all of these older trucks that have been lowered a few inches to give them a tougher stance. I'm not looking to drop it in the weeds but to give it a better rat rod look to go in line with the killer patina this old truck has. It's all surface rust and I want that old hot rod shop look. I even have a buddy who does vintage air brushing coming over to paint my doors to make it look like a old parts truck for a rod shop. "Shannon's Hot Rod Shop"
Fort Worth, TX
Head Jobs Since 1962

This is a example of what the doors are going to look like.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/171/483067655_354abec381.jpg

But on the doors of my truck; pictured below.

[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/texas_campers/62C10001.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm287/texas_campers/62C10004.jpg[/IMG]

I'm going to run the old rusty rims and skinny tires and don't have plans for anything else. I just want the truck a little lower and tougher looking but I don't want any of the steering jacked up. I can care less about ride or hauling stuff. That is what I have a new truck for and not why I bought this one. This is for looks and cruising only. Let's be honest; she isn't gonna win any shows! =0)

Rat Rod {rat - rod}; (Noun) - fun, low-budget, traditional, rusty, patina hot rods, built with junk yard parts, built to drive - not to show.

This too is going to be air brushed on the tail gate. =0)