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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 5 | Hi all, I'm not actually a Chev or GM guy but I'm working on an old truck (a '49 Willys 1-ton) and love the site, I go here a few times a week and read-up on a lot of general info (stuff that doesn't just apply to GM).
Anyways, my question is this: Can you apply POR-15 on top of an Epoxy primer?? My welding guy is painting my frame with Grey Epoxy primer as used in construction and I'm thinking about using my POR-15 over this...otherwise I'm familiar with the POR application and have the metal ready stuff, just never heard of this before (wondering if it's a waste of precious, precious POR).
I had assumed I would pick up a rusty frame with a welded section but he is kind enough to paint it for me. I had originally intended to wire-brush, pressure-wash and dry the frame completely, use the metal ready and put a couple coats on top. But now I'm wondering if I just need Tremclad or Rustoleum etc.
Anybody done this before? If so, any advice on the prep?
Thanks a lot for helping out this newb!! I'm 16 and this is my first vehicle, learning as I go. I think my main dilemma is whether to sand or use the MetalReady prep...don't know what will happen either way.
Kier
PS: I did my best to search for this situation, but didn't spend much more than half an hour of digging 'cause I really need to know what to do right away (I've gotta get my frame tomorrow, storing it outside, supposed to rain the day after tomorrow, I never leave primer out in the rain. So basically this will all be happening tomorrow afternoon. So please accept my classic, Canadian "SORRY" for the rush)
Kier Gigeroff New Brunswick
'49 2wd Willys Jeep truck. L-134 Willys go-devil 4-cyl 63hp, Borg-Warner T90E1 3-speed, Timken 51540 rear diff. (5.38:1). 1-ton rear springs, 3/4 ton front. 118" wheelbase.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Kier,
Epoxy primer will seal the metal - a little rain will not get through to the metal (if the epoxy was properly applied).
The metal should be rust-free before applying the epoxy.
POR (Paint Over Rust) is costly over-kill when applied over epoxy. MetalReady Prep is for non-painted metal.
Preferred sequence: POR over rusted (Prepped) metal and then epoxy over the POR before it has set. The epoxy then gives a good surface for over coatings.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 5 | Ok, I'll see what's up -- I'm pretty sure he's doing the whole frame, but possibly just the welded areas, as I know he's not going to sandblast it, which would really be the only practical way to completely remove the rust. Either way this guy knows metal so I'm not worried about how he's going to do it, I'm sure he'll do what's best.
Perhaps if he's just doing the new metal that's been welded in (which is a pretty substantial area), I'll topcoat the epoxy primer with a normal rust paint and do the rest of the (rusty) frame with metal ready and POR. Should do the trick just fine.
That's good to know the epoxy primer won't rust -- I don't know my paints too well, I just know what I've used before is worthless if you don't topcoat it. How durable is Epoxy primer?
Thanks a lot for clearing this up!!
Kier
Kier Gigeroff New Brunswick
'49 2wd Willys Jeep truck. L-134 Willys go-devil 4-cyl 63hp, Borg-Warner T90E1 3-speed, Timken 51540 rear diff. (5.38:1). 1-ton rear springs, 3/4 ton front. 118" wheelbase.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 44 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 44 | 16 years old and scratch building a 49 Willys 1 ton. How cool is that? Glad to see young guys enjoying old trucks! The guys on this forum are a great source. I see your from a great part of Canada. Good luck with your truck Kier | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 23 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 23 | As I understand it POR 15 needs metal contact to be effective. My body man tells me its either epoxy or POR 15 but not both. I suggest putting the question to the POE 15 Help Line. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | POR 15 has to used on either bare metal or rusted metal, rough surfaces preferred. If there's any prior finish on the part, it will not stick.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 461 | Use the Por and just follow their instructions.. you should be fine w/o the epoxy..that's what I did.
Hank | | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 321 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2007 Posts: 321 | I would have to agree with Andrew. POR15 will flake off if it doesn't have a rough bare metal surface to adhere to or a proper primer. Call their hotline and ask that's the best thing to do. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 29 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 29 | I've used the POR 15 on most of my inner panels over a sand blasted finish and it sticks great. I read on the can that if you want to paint over the por 15 you should spray a thin coat of primer over the por15 when it gets tacky. I would recomend painting it directly on the metal. One of the great things about the por15 is that it can bend with the metal. I would think the primer under the por would chip if it flexed or if you hit it by axident. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | POR15 will flake off if it doesn't have a rough bare metal surface to adhere to or a proper primer. The POR 'Metal Ready', definately seems to help as well. 1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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