The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop screwdriver drill in the distributor trick?

I might be dreaming, but I thought there was something about taking a distributor apart and using a screwdriver to turn everything over and check for correct oiling and what not. If I'm correct, can someone point me to where I can find info on how to do that, and if I'm not - was it the oil pump or something? (I really think it had something to do with the distributor though).

Thanks

The distributor is driven by the camshaft and in turn, it drives the oil pump. If you remove the distributor, you sill see that the bottom of the shaft looks like a large slot screwdriver. If you put a shaft with a similar end in a drill into the distrutor hole and seat it into the oil pump, you can turn the pump and generate oil pressure. You could do this and watch for oil to run out the rocker arm shaft.

If you have an old distributor, you can strip the cap, rotor, and everything else off of it, and then grind the gear right off the shaft. I did that to prime my 230 build last year, it worked very very well.

so from what I read, I could either use a screw driver, or basically, turn the distributor into a screw driver by grinding the gear off of the shaft which would seat exactly where its supposed to.

I do have an old distributor I'm not going to use. I guess the question is, is would I be risking anything by just using the screw driver - like stripping out whatever it goes into (its not like I've never stripped a flat head screw!).

What do you think?

I use a piece of 1/2" diameter round stock, and grind/file a flat tang on the end to duplicate the bottom of the distributor shaft. That way, there's no question of the shaft fitting into the oil pump drive properly. Just spin the shaft clockwise with a 1/2" capacity drill motor until you feel the drill load down- - - -it's very obvious when you get oil pressure. Have someone spin the engine with the starter for a few seconds if you want to distribute the pressurized oil evenly. Be sure the oil pressure port is plugged, or the gauge is connected- - - -it's surprising how far that little fitting can squirt oil!
Jerry

There isn't any risk using a screwdriver shaft in the drill. When I first worked on my 235 years ago, I took a solid steel curtain rod, cut it to a good length, and ground a flat screwdriver type end on it. It worked great! An old mechanic friend showed me that.
Samantha

Take the cam gear off a old distributor by tapping out the attachment pin (after grinding one end of the pin). You can then rotate the pump using an electric drill or air drill and a 6-sided socket over the rotor shaft.

An air drill works better.....electric drills tend to burn out the brushes under load.
If you use an electric drill, watch that it does not get hot or start to smoke!

Summit sells one that fits for a chevy. Cost is like $12. Hook it up to a drill and it works like a charm. I marked the top of mine to line up the slot for stabbing the dizzy back in.

any idea where I'd find that on their site? I did a search for distributor under tools. Thanks

Someone else will have to identify the one(s) that work:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=oil%20pump%20primer&dds=1

An old pushrod with the socket end cut off and the ball end flattened works well especially with a pneumatic drill.

we just cut an old screw driver and used that. a guy restring an early 1950's corvette with the 235 said that it works well

you guys all need to join todays tool market!!! harbor freight has a distributor oil primer tool that does this job very well when used with a common drill, sells for around $12..................

Right here

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Tools-Shop-Equipment/Part-Type/Oil-Pump-Primers/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

sdsmooth & Project Helen,

What would be the part numbers?

Thanks,

For a SBC here is the part #.. Sorry price went up to $19 but all ball bearing, a nice tool to own

Summit Racing SUM-901010

Ok, am I missing something? The end of the distributor shaft is flat, which is why I'm assuming people are saying its ok to use a screwdriver shaft. The end of this tool looks round to me, shouldn't the end be flat, like a screwdriver? What am I not getting?

What size engine, Paul? I assumed a 216/235/261 (sorry)?

The SBC tool will most likely not work in a stovebolt engine (if it will, maybe someone will confirm this)?

Be careful My son smoked my 18 volt Dewalt priming a v8

Why would you spend 10-20 dollars on a tool which may or may not work instead of making one for free in less time than it would take to order the other off the internet?

I agree with "kingisomer". The tool is cheap, but can very easily be made for free in a few minutes. Any flat slotted end will work fine. You just want it to be able to spin quick (hence putting your drill on the end of it), and not bounce around loosely, as that will chew up the end of the oil pump, and perhaps the shaft that the distributor sits in. You obviously want it to remain oil tight afterwards.

Don't worry too much about burning out your drill; as "Hotrod Lincoln" mentioned, it is VERY obvious once that pressure is built up, and you can stop at that point.

Hope that simplifies it for you.

its a 235 - appreciate the help

I used 1/2" shaft a grinder and small piece of copper tube to keep it centered on the pump shaft. I usually use a 1/2" drill. on high pressure / high volume pumps, you can just about stall the drill, so you know when you have pressure.