The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Stuck Lifter?

Okay so for those of you following my oil pump swap drama, i got all of it back together and still have the problem with the valve noise. The pressure is good now but the valves seem to go "dry" every once and a while and start to clack horribly. It also seems to miss fire constantly just kinda stutters and it gets really worse when the clacking begins, almost to the point it wont run anymore. Shut it off and it goes back to running okay Could this be a stuck lifter, seeing how it comes and goes? Thanks

Are hydraulic lifters?

Yes, sorry forgot to mention these are hydraulic lifters, the engine is a 1960 model 235 from a truck. Thanks

Hy gearhead695456, it sounds like the oil pressure to the lifters is being interupted somehow. If you're sure your oil level is correct, then I think something might be blocking the oils return path to the oilpan. If all your lifters are "clacking", then you don't have a stuck "one". Take the valve cover off and make sure the drain back passages are not clogged up, there should be a few places for it to drain back down, if memory serves me correctly there should be some drain back holes behind the side cover as well, so take that off and check in there also. The fact that a new pump did not solve your problem says to me that something else is wrong, hope that helps.

I would add some marvel mystery oil to the oil maybe 1/2 cup to a cup and that may open the oil to the lifters .Run the engine for 25 or 50 miles and see if that helps.


Pete

Original cam? A truck 235 should have a solid lifter cam in it, if it is still original.
I will second the Marvel suggestion. I have personally seen it work on a '51 Chevy splash oiler 235/'Glide sedan. The car had been sitting for 16 years prior, the Marvel freed it right up.

I wonder if the oil pressure is too high or the valve springs weak causing the lifters to pump up.

I think by 58 all 235 blocks had the oil passage drilled through for hydraulic lifters whether it was equipped with them or not. Should be adequate oil supply unless something else is wrong. Did you get them adjusted correctly?

Thanks for the suggestions , will try the Miracle Oil. Nothing has changed on the engine except the oil pump recently. So the adjustment on the valves shouldnt be wrong? How can I identify a mechanical and hydraulic valves? Thanks

You could try pushing down on the pushrod end of the rocker arm. If there's give, it's a hydraulic.
If it is a solid lifter cam, which I suspect since it's a '60 truck engine, then the vavles may be out of adjustment. The proper clearances should be .006" intake, .018" exhaust, set with the engine at operating temp.

Okay, supposing that it is a solid lifter cam that I have, would this problem come and go like this or be pretty constant? Thanks.

So many questions, so many possibilities.

Many things might have been changed in that engine over the years. Since we are clutching at straws (and not able to look at internal parts), perhaps pre-58 lifters (hydraulic or mechanical) were put into that block. Read the warning at the bottom of this page.

The experts here will tell you that hydraulic lifters won't work on a solid cam. All about ramp degrees, etc. OK, fine. But I have used them with no problems whatsoever. It isn't the big deal on an old six that it perhaps is on a modern V8. So I wouldn't get concerned about the cam unless it has a bad lobe and needs to be replaced.

On a solid lifter there is no diff if theres oil pressure or not so if they make noise on and off they have to be hydraulic.


Pete

That makes sense Pete, thanks.

ok fellas first off check the lifters by pulling the cover on the passenger side of the motor. they are not hydraulic if they have anything that looks like a solid surface, if it looks like a dented surface with a "keeper" then they are hydraulic. now drain the oil and feel for metal shards as in worn metal pieces, now give it 4 quarts of deisel fuel in the oil pan and run it for about ten minutes this will act as a solvent and clean the oil channels out,next drain the deisel and replace with oil now run it again and listen for changes. if the clacking still continues change the lifters by pulling them out, put lithium grease on the new ones and slide them into place, next put the push rods back in their original holes and tighten the nut down untill all movement is removed when the lifter is in it's lowest position on the camshaft, give them 1/4-1/2 more turn on the nut and you should be good to go.......old school shade tree fix it by socket dropper