The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop On my way from bad to worse in a hurry

Ok. Converted to 12v. Goofed and forgot to install a resistor with the coil.

Despite that, engine fired easily and ran well. Next time I went to start it up, it fired easily but ran rough. a week later, engine turns, but no ignition. Posted my problem on here and a few folks pointed out the resistor issue.

So.. I replaced the coil w/ internally resisted coil. No change. Replaced points, checked plugs, rotor cap, distributor cap, getting spark. No ignition.

I moved on to the carb. Pull off top carb and notice the gasket is falling apart (carb looks clean, though). Replaced gasket and put it back together. Stomp on the starter button and carb starts spewing fuel! I'm pretty sure this isn't right.

The more I check or tinker with, the worse things seem to get.

I would think that either your float or needle is hanging up in the carb. The gasket sometimes breaks when the top is taken off.

The trick to getting an engine that is being difficult is do one thing at a time
1- Get the plugs to fire so now you know it's not the spark

2- work on the carb ,rebuild and set the mixture screws to what ever the rebuild paper says

If you work on two things at the same time you'll never know what it is thats wrong


Pete

Thanks. I'll check the float & needle. The needle did fall out while I was replacing the gasket, but I didn't make any other adjustments when I opened the carb.

I had checked through everything I could think of on the spark side of the equation and everything seems to be working as it should. That's when I moved over to the carb.

The carb is clean, I'm getting fuel when I move the accelerator arm, and the choke opens and closes properly.

Did you check the condenser ? (Its cheap, just replace it)

Finish checking the electrical first....condenser is a good place to move next.... while at it check the points.... if things have been fried they may have arced and are not badly pitted or burned...

Good luck....

Bob C.

When I started having starting problems, I checked the points because I was told they were the first to go since I had not installed the resistor on the first go 'round.

Points looked fine, but I installed new points & condenser anyway. Plugs looked pretty bad, so I installed new plugs at the same time.

I think I've got the electrical side covered... I'm getting spark on #1 (need to go through and check the other 5). Even if only the #1 plug is getting spark, shouldn't I get ignition of some sort? I would expect that if only one plug is getting spark, the engine would begin to fire then cut out when the other plugs don't fire.

Another question... If I am getting spark at #1, can I then rule out points, condenser, rotor, cap, coil, starter, and ignition switch? Or could I still have an issue in one of those components?

I've got to get the carb rebuilt/reassembled properly before I can go back to checking anything else. As it is now, I spew fuel from the carb anytime I stomp the starter with or without the key turned.

Once I get the carb sorted out, I'll start working my way through the tips in https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...p;Words=spark&Search=true#Post562670

are you sure the coil is good? you may be getting a weak spark that arcs however wont push a spark under pressure. Ran into this problem on an old Allis Chalmers. went thru 2 coils before we got a good on.

You need a good sharp bright blue spark at the spark plug. A spark with a yellow tint will not do the job.

If you get spark at #1 you will get spark at rest of the plugs as long as the cap & rotor are good. If gas is flooding in when you try to start it, it needs some carb work. Make sure the needle & seat are clean & the float is not full of gas. I take it this is a 6 cyl. with a model B Roch. carb. Don't get discouraged. These things are basic & simple. You have a lot of help available from the fellow Stovebolters. Look under the hood of one of these late model cars & think if you had to make it run.

Got the carb reassembled, so at least I'm not spewing fuel everywhere. I ended up rebuilding it (didn't know how to do that a week ago).

I went back through everything I've done since this started and found that the condenser & the spring on the points were not seated well. Now I'm getting good spark, but still no ignition and It's backfiring through the tailpipe.

Thought I'd jump back in to resolve the thread.

Sometimes it's the simplest things that cause the most trouble.

My issue ended up being 2 things. 1) when I was checking the rotor, I put it back in wrong (really got to pay more attention), 2) and this is the best part- I was out of gas! After my 12v conversion, the gas needle bottoms out at just over 1/4 tank and it never occurred to me that that could be the issue.

So it seems, if you put it together the right way and put gas in, it works much better.

Always great to end with a smile on your face. I don't see anywhere in this thread what your vehicle is. Care to clue us in?

I have a 1950 Chevy 3600. At the time of this thread, it had the original 216, but I'm in the process of installing a 261.

That will be a big improvement in power. Are you planning any other mods?

The truck was all original and pretty solid when I bought it. I thought I'd start a frame off restoration right away, but had too much fun driving it as it was. Before I knew it, it had been 2 years.

I've upgraded as things needed attention (ie. new battery turned into 12v conversion) and now the 261 resulting from a bent rod in the babbit pounder.

The goal is to end up with a good daily driver. I'd like to keep her as original as I can while adding inconspicuous updates. I'll probably change the rear end to get over 55 mph, which will mean changing the front to IFS with discs so I can get back to 0 mph. I've got an ez wire harness ready to put in and am researching A/C options and radio options that look period correct.

ElCid93, Get some pics posted so we can see what you're up to!!!!

Photos added to signature. Where in NC are you, 40casey?