The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Radiator tank repair

1950 chevy 3100, chevy 235
Harrison Radiator #3128515, R-11A 53B
Dropped my harrison radiator off at the local shop for testing. Mechanic called and said the upper tank cannot be repaired. Core and lower tank are good. I picked up the pieces yesterday.
Mechanic removed the upper tank and the inside baffle plate,the metal was brittle. He said it was not needed.

Im just not sure if this guy didnt want to bother repairing it or if its really toast.

Since the core is still good I would rather have this one repaired if possible.

If someone with radiator experience can look at the pic's and give me an recomendation. Radiator tank pics

Thanks

Yep, that tank is a goner! Once those stress cracks form, there's virtually no way to keep them from spreading, same thing with a gas tank that develops a crack. If someone with a radiator with a trashed core wants to donate a top tank to you, that's about the only way to put that one back into service.
Jerry

Thanks

Now I’m wondering if I should purchase a new radiator, or repair this one. Since the core is still good and looking at the tube sheet it looks as it is. It had not been leaking.

What is the conventional wisdom?

Is a good old core superior to a new replacement (maybe off shore).

Any thoughts

Thanks

Are you going for a restored look or a servicable truck? If the latter I bought the champion aluminum radiator off ebay and it was a perfect fit.

Thanks,

I would like an original looking radiator. Definitely not a show truck. I will be driving it when I put it back together. Summers in southern Nevada can be brutal.

Now I’m debating repairing this one or going new.

The radiator shop I checked with can still get an original core fin pattern but they were "very expensive". To re-core with the common fin patterns now available was going to be about $300. He thought that was pretty reasonable so I didn't ask what "very expensive" was. I am likely going to go the $300 route because my core is very poor but the tanks and straps are in great shape and being original, have the proper date on them to match the truck.

Chuck

I have the oppsite situation
My core is good, The upper tanks is bad and seem like its unrepairable.
With the information I have been reading on this forun about aftermarket parts Im not sure a new radiator is a much better option.
I have put a request in the swap meetsection for tanks.
I see classic duty and jim carters list 3 core replacements. Ill check my flaps also.

Walker Radiator, expensive but you can’t go wrong with a quality reproduction. These aren’t like those thin skinned imports sold by the vendors. http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/
All depends on how long your going to keep the truck ane how you're going to drive it.
DG

Thanks for the reference Mr Grahm
I don’t mind paying for quality and supporting American companies, 10 year warranty is a plus. I just started researching and what’s out there can be confusing. 2 row 3 row 4 row aluminum/copper, core thickness. I’ll pick up all I can here in the forum before I talk to the radiator salesman.
When I get the truck running I’ll be keeping and driving it as long as the left foot can get the clutch pedal to the floor. Trucks been in the family since 1973 and I plan on giving it to the boy when I’m done. He’s still in diapers.
A good quality radiator suited for southern Nevada summers is a must.

My Old radiator measured 1 1/4 in core thickness. The Old Radiator support will accept a core up to 2" thick.

Old radiator is a Harrison 3128515 R-11A 53B

On a 1950 1/2 ton 3100 with a 235 53/55 what should be the raidator core thickness?


Thanks all

Don't know what that 3128515 is out of, maybe a GMC or some other GM product line? A 2" core is pretty much standard, and you shouldn’t have any problems with a fresh cooling system. I’d run a 4lb. cap to give my self a little extra insurance. Your getting into the HD radiator with the 3" cores and I don't think you would really need that unless you’re planning on doing a bunch of heavy hauling.
The Walker radiators are expensive because they are using really good materials like they used in the radiators years ago. The Cobra line is the top shelf brass radiator. Also they are very good reproductions that fit. I’d put them in the same category as Mar-K when it comes to quality.
I’d stay away from all the import stuff and the aluminum radiators are nice, for a hot rod but not very original, quite expensive and not easy to repair if you have a problem. And aluminum just doesn’t stand the test of time like brass does.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks Mr Graham

I talked to a good ol boy at walker today.
He quoted me a c 520-1 Its about $140.00 more than the other guys. Cant go wrong with the 10 year warranty
2" core. Said it will take 4 weeks to deliver. He did tell me I would have to run a 16lb cap? Smooth top tank.

I called a of the catalog company about the one they sell. Overseas built/90 day warranty.

US Radiator makes one also. US made 1 year warranty. 1 week to deliver. I searched the stovebolt site and didnt find any feed back on them.



Thanks

Chevs of the 40s has new ones that look just like the origanal. I think they are being remanufacted under the Harris name. I think they are 4 or 500 dollars though.