The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pulling a 216 without a huge hammer

Keep in mind I am new to pre 1970's trucks. I attempted to pull the stock motor out of my 1950 1/2 ton yesterday but failed. I found the front motor mounts but what is going on in the back. Were do I unbolt the motor from the tranny? What do I have to pull? Can I leave the tranny in? Were do I bolt to the engine to pull it? The head bolts? Any advice for a rookie would be greatly appreciated!!

You'll get better help from the guys that have done it, but there are two engine mounts supporting the bell housing. Usually caked in oily dirt. Also a transmission support back by where the torque tube connects to the transmission.

Most people drop the torque tube, pull the transmission, remove the hood and radiator at the minimum. Yes, they typically use two head bolts at a balance point to lift the engine out.

Other guys will chip in with more specific help.

As fredstev states above, it is much easier to remove the engine (and clutch/bell housing) by leaving the transmission in place (or removing the transmission first). This way, you are lifting a lighter load and you do not have to worry about clearing the engine and transmission as one long, awkward piece.

There are four bolts that hold the transmission to the clutch housing: 2 on the top (freely accessible from the rear); and, 2 bolts from the lower rear (you will have to remove the sheet metal cover from the bottom of the clutch housing).

The rear motor mounts need to be disconnected.

All the clutch pedal to clutch release-bearing lever hardware has to be removed.

If I have forgotten something, someone will correct this or add clarification.

On my 53 3/4 ton, I pulled the entire front clip as a unit to make things easier, used my engine lift. Front fenders hang on the radiator support. BTW, I found on this radiator support the factory spot welds had given way, fixed that item that I may otherwise have missed. And with the sheet metal out of the way you won't have to lift the motor as high.

By all means, pull the trans first it'll hang up on the crossmember if you don't. I bolt the hoist chain across the motor using the manifold.
bolts. You should get a repro shop manual so you can see what's involved. It's not rocket science but you want to take your time and be safe.

When I pulled the 216 from my '51 I pulled the front clip first, which was very easy. I just removed the fender to cab bolts, fender-firewall braces, radiator shroud. With the help of a friend after it was unbolted we set it to one side. To get the engine out we tried pulling it with the tranny hooked up but could get it to work so I pulled the tranny using the cherry picker through the transmission access cover. Once the tranny was disconnected from the bellhousing I turned it sideways and lowered it to the ground and then pulled it from under the truck.

The engine/tranny use a four-point mount system- Front, side (bellhousing) and rear (tranny cross memeber).

Stupid question of the day...... Are repair manuals available for these old trucks? Is there a how to pull a 216 for dummies? Were can I get one?

Nearly all of the truck suppliers offer Shop Manuals and Assembly Manuals.

try www.lmctruck.com
www.brotherstrucks.com

and use the Search feature on our Home Page

You can also try FAXON Auto literature in Riverside Calif. They stock a ton of repo manuals and their prices are quite reasonable.

1-800-458-2734 West Coast time.
They also have a website www.faxonautoliterature.com

Brian, The factory manuals of old (like you need) were fantastic, lots of photos, drawings etc. All step by step instructions, you'll be an expert in a week.

As we are on the subject, my 47 manual says to pull the engine and tranny together. It also states to remove the valve cover, the rocker arm assembly, and use the second from the rear head bolt and the third from the front one on the left and right sides. DO NOT use any part of the intake casting or its bolts to lift the motor. I have found on a lot of older trucks, the top bar of the radiator support has been cut on each side. This is the old way to remove the motor without having to lift it so high up. I prefer to remove the entire from clip and the splash pan and bumper. This gives you a clear shot out of the engine bay. Its more work, but you often find things that are worn out and broken, you wouldnt have normally seen. After you have done a truck or two it only takes a couple of hours to remove an engine in this manner.

What is the reason for pulling out this motor?

Ok, she is out. I finally spent some time and looked at what was going on. It helps when you pull all of the bolts. I pulled the motor and bellhousing. It was a tight fit but cleared the core support.