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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 68 | I need the location of the cab mounts for a 52-3100 on a 82 S-10 stander cab long bed.I am doing all the fabrication out in the driveway under a tree. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Chester, I have not done this myself but I do know there are aftermarket dealers of the mounts you need. Perhaps their sites list the dimensions you are asking about. Good luck with your sahdetree project. Here is a link for what you are trying to do. http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/s10_frame_swap.htm
Last edited by DrewP; 01/21/2010 12:17 PM.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I'm not aware of any measured drawings you can just buy to do this. I think most the DIY crowd fits and cuts and they go. At least that would be consistent with the pictures I've seen.
The best looking NON-kit installs have been where someone built some nice looking mounts and then bolted or welded those to the frame after attaching them to the body and getting it exactly where they wanted it.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 68 | I think you are right. When I think about it that is the way I will go. I will sight it in! Thanks for all the help.  | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | I originally considered a jig, then I did exactly like Steve mentioned. Build the mounts, located the cab, tack the mounts, remove the cab, weld the mounts - done. I added isolation mounts to mine as well to make up for any missalignment and pull during welding. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2270648590101989507YWlMmuhttp://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2115114610101989507uXcegV
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 68 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 68 | Very nice pic's. I can see clearer now. Thanks Scott. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | since your doing your kit yourself, 5" off the frame for the front mounts and you dont have to modify the cab floor. 3.5" like I have and you have to build a trans tunnel. between 1.5" and 3.5" and you are building a trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel. Below 1.5" and you are into new sheetmetal for the back of the cab. The following pic is with 1.5" of spacer between the frame and cab (a piece of 2 x 4) http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2917645630101989507lTpKbXhere is a link to my swap that has other useful links https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=58105&Number=421710#Post421710
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
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