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#611586 01/20/2010 2:04 AM
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F
'Bolter
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I have replacement glass for the door window and removed the old glass, after a lot of prying. I cleaned the track and now I need to replace what ever was on the track to secure the window glass. It appeared to be some sort of rubber seal. It appears to be held in place by some adhesive. I haven't seen the seal any where in parts book's. Any Idea's will be welcome.

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J
'Bolter
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I'm not entirely sure,as I have the one piece glass,but it might be an idea to send 'Achipmunk' a PM.
He's just gone through the replacement process with his.
He's a nice,helpful guy and despite his name,doesn't bite! grin


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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Wrench Fetcher
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I brought my windows to a glass replacement/repair place. The glass parts with the channels were still atached to the glass. The glass folks tell me that the channel(s) need to be pressed onto the new glass. It sounds as though the stuff in the channel is an adhesive that is used to glue the glass to the chanel. I'll know more in a couple of days when they are finished.

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F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thanks I will be waiting for your out come.

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'Bolter
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Ok I will ask him. Thanks

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'Bolter
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flynn55, I may have picked you up wrong.
Do you mean the glass channel/sash attached to the bottom of your glass?
If so,they used what they call 'setting tape' which is basically a rubber strip that's folded over the bottom of the glass and as Westradel mentions is pressed,or believe it or not the sash is then hammered onto the glass!
It takes a steady hand and nerves to do,get it wrong and you can guess the outcome.
The positioning is also important to ensure smooth operation.
The original rubber will have certainly perished and gone gummy over the years so it's easy to mistake it as adhesive,unless the glass has been replaced at some time by a P.O. using something like urethane bond.
If your concerned about doing this yourself,any good auto glass shop should be able to do this for you for a few $$$.
Just make sure your channels are clean and free of any heavy rust.
It shouldn't take them more than a few minutes.
Alternatively,if total originality is not a problem,you could glue the channels on using urethane,which you can buy at most Flaps,I know Autozone sell it.
Do NOT use silicone sealant.
I hope this helps.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 01/21/2010 8:17 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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jock, thanks for the confidence!! I sent flynn55 a PM...well about two pages worth!!!
Over the years some folks used glass tape as original but the glass tape I had did not say if I needed to oil the track or not to make it swell up...and I for one do not like the glass tape.

My local glass company had some "square" type rubber "gaskets" that fits over the width of the glass and then I use a rubber hammer to drive the sash down onto the glass.
Some folks use glass sealer, rtv, and such.

Just for info.... on my vent glass I went to the parts house and bought me a tube of Black Weather Stripping ADHESIVE...put it in my caulking gun, cut me a big tip on it and filled the wing vent glass frame with it. Then slid the glass in, then pulled it back to the vertical seal, latched the latch and let it set overnight. Don't try to clean the mess up till its dry. I then used a razor blade to trim it up and it looks fantastic. With the black powder coated assembly and vent glass frame they really look good. I had thought about using this on the side window but the rubber gasket really held it tight all by itself.
...but if I had it to do again I would probably put a SMALL amount or light coat of the adhesive in the bottom of the side window but its working ok.
The big tube of Adhesive was $16 but well worth it!


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Glass setting tape (originally it was a fabric tape with a soapstone material on one side; now available in rubber or in rubber and cork).

The Shop Manual has procedures for removing the glass, and installing the glass with the tape.

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J
'Bolter
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O.K I'll 'fess up Alvin, I used Glazing urethane in mine too. wink Hey it was free!
I've got my 'Thrifty Scot' reputation to uphold.
I 'glued' the lower sash on.
As you'll be aware the pre 51's used a metal frame round the one piece glass .
I found some u shape rubber at work and used this for my frames,worked like a charm!(I've got tempered glass so I could beat on it a bit heavier.) eek
Not totally original,but then again neither's my truck.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 01/21/2010 8:22 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
Yes I am sorry I didn't communicate properly. It is the bottom of the glass and I will do as you suggest and go to the local glass shop. I have measured the old glass and the placement of the track to that I can place it back where it was. Thanks a lot.


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