The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks replacing ignition switch on a 61 apache

This is the ignition switch that's currently on my truck. Is this the correct switch and bezel for the truck? I've found out that the po had put other parts on this truck that didn't belong, so I question that this is the correct one. It never had a key, and it would only turn less than a qtr turn to start. The connector looks like this , but matches the switch. I want to replace the ignition switch on my apache, but the ones I've tried to buy don't match this one. They all look like this . Even the connector pattern doesn't match. I'm totally confused and I don't want to buy the wrong stuff.

I can't say for certain for your truck but I don't believe that is the right one. Here is what Jim Carter shows.

The switch looks like it could be right. The round nut(?) looks good, but the slot for the key to in is a later model I believe. Doesn't look like the spares I have. It could be that the only piece for a 65 is the nut, and the rest is a later switch.

Larry

Sorry gents. I'm calling BS on both of you. That IS the correct switch for a '61. None of the catalogs carry the earlier switches like this one. So hang on to that one. You can take that to a locksmith-a good old timer, and he'll fix tou right up with a new set of keys for it. It doesn't actually need the key to start the truck. It has a kind of "farmer" set up, where once the switch is in the 2nd position, then you can start and stop the truck at will. If you don't turn it to position 1, (to lock it out) then you will never need a key.
FGT, your link to Jim Carter's locks omits any reference to 60 and 61 trucks at all and proves that even the best of parts companies (I like to think that Carter's is the best) don not carry the 60-61 switch.

Thanks K10. As you can see, the lock cylinder is pretty damaged. Any suggestions on how to remove it? I've tried to use the pinhole to release it, but there's nothing there for a paperclip to engage.

The silly thing about those pin holes is that you need the key to get the cylinder out, if you have the key you don't need to get the cylinder out. Like k10 said, take it to a locksmith and he can fix you up and probably cheaper than a new ignition switch and lock would be.

You need the key to remove the cyl. When you get it in the right position you will feel a spring behind a pin when you insert the paper clip. When you depress the pin you turn it a little ways counter clockwise & it should come out.

That's what started this problem in the first place: I don't have a key. When I got the truck, it didn't come with a key, but I could slightly turn the ign switch enough to start the motor. But it never turned smoothly. It felt like something was sticking. I wanted to remove it from the truck, so I broke off the chrome turn knob off the lock cylinder, which was keeping the bezel from coming off the switch. I then removed the switch from the truck.

It looked like the switch itself was ok, so my plan was to buy a matched lock set (ign sw, doors, glovebox). I just needed to remove the lock cylinder from the switch. When I couldn't figure that out, I then started to look for a new switch also. But everything I saw that was listed as the correct switch for the truck didn't look like the one I already have. Then I started to question if the one I have was the correct one. K10 says it is, so I'm going with that. Makes sense since the truck's wiring connector matches the switch.

So here's my options, as I see it(along with buying a matched lock set):

a. Find and buy a matching switch.
OR
b. Somehow remove the lock cylinder from the current switch without damaging it.
OR
c. Buy a new switch that's listed as the correct one even though it doesn't match the current switch, and change out the wiring connector.

Any advice you guys could offer would surely be appreciated. Thanks again!

Sometimes a switch that is listed may be diffrerent in apearance then the original. They may be made to cover more applications. The connector should be the same but you may have to change the wires.

No. The connector pattern is also entirely different on the new switches I've seen.

I was able to locate the spring-loaded button that would normally be pushed through the pin hole. I was able to push the button in, and turn the lock a little more ccw than before, but still couldn't remove the lock. Since I don't have a key, would a blank key work to remove it?

Good news: I just found out the correct Delco part number and several vendors have it available for about $40. If I can't take out the lock, I'll just buy a new one.

I just had the same problem with mine. I bought a used ignition switch with no key. I was able to drill out the center of the lock and make it turn so I could remove the tumbler. Make sure you put it in a vise to hold it.

I found a switch on ebay for 15 bucks and was delivered today! Perfect match. Thanks to all for your advice!

I was going to suggest, that I can help you with one, but I see you found one. Congrats.