The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Anybody know?

Is it possible (practical) on a T5 swap into a 54-235, 3100 to drop the pressure plate and clutch disc out the bottom of the bell housing without seperating the bellhousing from the block? There appears to be ample room...pull the sparkplugs to make spinning the flywheel easier....change out pilot bushing through the bellhousing opening, pilot in the new disc and rotate the engine to sequentially tighten/torque the pressure plate bolts.

If you've done it or even if you think it's a hairbrained idea and want to tell me why, I'd appreciate your input!!! I just don't get all excited about pulling all the foot starter linkage/starter and blocking up the engine if it's feasible.

Thanks in advance....I think....Dave

Dave,

I did it last week - removed and resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the pilot bushing, throwout bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate after removing the transmission.

The procedure is pretty well described in the Shop Manual (I looked at the Manual only after swearing at the clutch disc and pressure plate for not dropping down because of obstructions). The Manual said it would be impossible unless the clutch fork is first removed - it was right.

Tim

That's the way to do the job. Bellhousing doesn't need to come off your just swapping trans and clutch plate. I even kept the foot starter linkage, so far in my life the ONLY trouble I've had with a starter was the lousy solonoid. You're on the right track.

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the quick response. I thought it would work but.....also might just dust off my shop manual.....thanks for the double heads-up!

This site is really AMAZING....I'll trust the word of someone who has actually done the job a heck of a lot quicker than some tech writer that hasn't gotten his hands dirty since 3rd grade!!!!

Once again guys....thanks a bunch.....Dave

The bell housing won't come off without dropping the flywheel.

Shop and service manuals for our trucks were written by extremely competent individuals, I find mine invaluable, its always a good place to start

I just had to swap my pilot bushing (not sure why you need to), it was not fun sitting under the truck and tapping it out through the bellhousing index, but it worked

Dropped the pressure plate/clutch disc/flywheel out the bottom of the 54 with 55 engine without pulling the bell housing. Did pull the clutch fork...had plenty of room. That's the good news....now for the bad...the flywheel has a clutch surface visible crack....none in the bolt area. Wonder what the chances would be of scoring a 1955-235-14-1/4", 10" clutch disc flywheel? Oh well!

Also slid in the 1988 IROC-Z Borg Warner Camaro 9 bolt posi/disc brake 3.08 diff. to replace the 3.90 closed torque tube rear end. It's 62" wide and it sure makes easy work out of this process.The disc emergency brake cable will even hook up. Same width pinion flange as the S10/T5 driveshaft so maybe I'll get lucky on the driveshaft fab.

Front disc brackets from CPP to go on tomorrow. Picked up the rotors/calipers and various hardware from salvage ($20.)to do the mock-up. Found that a mock-up eliminates buying new parts that sometimes don't fit. New components go on after all the bugs are worked out.

Of course you dropped them with out pulling the bell housing.

As long as you have the flywheel off, look inside the bell housing. See those two bolts at the top? The ones you can't get to with the flywheel in place?

As I said above,

Cletis....didn't grasp what you were saying in the earlier post but get the picture now. Thanks for the heads-up.