The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Tie-rod Rubbing

The truck makes an odd noise while turning hard on one side and after working on the brakes, etc so often the tie-rod end seems to be polished. I'm sure the tie-rod end is being rubbed and was wondering what prevents steering too sharp. Is there a way to fix this?

there's a small stud that acts as a stop - it's adjustable not numbered, but shown here about dead center right above the tie rod end, stops against the [light colored] boss on the axle casting - common problem for hard left turns when folks put modern tires on, wider than original - tend to it, or it will polish that cap right off the tie rod and your steering will be gone, maybe at speed .... don't ask how I know

Bill

Have you changed your wheels? Some aftermarket
wheels have the incorrect backspacing for the
strait axle trucks. This especially becomes an
issue if you use a 15x7 wheel, they tend to use
the backspacing for Japanese 6-lug trucks. These
have too deep backspace and will rub. If you use
rims for a pre-'87 4x4 you'll be fine.
Definetly check the steering stops mentioned by
red58, I had to do that to a Dodge Ram with
oversized tires to fix a similar problem.

magnolia -

If you will look closely at the stud red58 is telling you about, you will find that it is not adjustable. That stud is actually the pin which holds the king pin in place. On that pin is a wheel stop. The wheel stop is a short piece of angled steel with a small pin punched into it to help hold it into place. The only way you are going to be able to stop the wheel from rubbing is to make some new wheel stops for each the left side and the right side that are longer then the stock ones so they will stop the wheel as it turns right or left left quicker. If you remove the wheel stop and look at it, you will see what it takes to make a new one. Be care full with those studs as they are soft metal and the nut will strip the threads easily.

Joe

Joe, hate to contradict ya, so I'll just magnafy the pic , the threaded end of the stop stud is held by the lock nut on the left, and it's screwed into the steering 3rd arm [part 22], not the axle end/kingpin housing

on the TF trucks the stop is adjustable and don't reguire any fiddling, just a pair of wrenches, and prolly some pb blaster or such

Bill

red58 -

I'm sorry - you are right! I stand corrected. :o

I failed to notice we were talking about a 58. I was thinking in terms of 41-55 1st Series axles. The boss is not on the 41-55 1st Series axles. I wish they were - it would make the job easier. I just finished making a set of wheel stops for a 41-55 1st Series axle.

Again - sorry red58 and magnolia!

Joe :o

Thanks Red58, especially for the second pic! Ok, now I understand where it's located. I took a pic of the wheel in question. http://members.shaw.ca/magnolia/tie-rod-end.jpg which shows the boss (stopper) isn't even there. I'm going to review the other wheel to see how its attached and try and get a replacement. I know you probably cringed at that elasto-string but the brake hose was rubbing on the inside of the tire.

ok I'm wrong. The boss is a lump that sticks out and its there. So I guess I'm going to increase the stop length - counterclockwise?

yes - the stop stud is normal threaded into a hole - just loosen the lock nut and turn it out a bit - go in stages to see what works without restricting the turn radius more than necessary - seeing the wear mark on the tire, you musta polished that drag link cap pretty good the tire can take it, the drag link can't - and drive it to check it - put some chalk on the knuckle or tire and make a couple hard turns, especially bumpy ones, the tires will pull further than they're turned when moving

the bungee on the brake line is understandable, they're hard to get set right to avoid rubbing - a slight twist when you tighten them on will usually do it, instead of making a nice smooth loop like that - what's more worrisome is that bolted on, welded up shock mount hopefully those are grade 8 bolts, and the shocks are the correct length

Bill

yes, they are strong enough bolts holding the bracket on. When I put new shocks on, the passenger side bracket broke so we ground it off, rewelded it and put it back on. Recently the driver side bracket broke for the same reason, same place. I'm still wondering if the shock is too much. Here's the details if it makes sense: Napa Classic Rider Gas, extended 20.23, collapsed 12.37, stroke 7.86 from Gabriel part#739047

I had the kingpins replaced a few weeks ago so its actually a good thing the bracket broke as I discovered the castle nut was finger-loose on both sides and I already experienced the bearings falling out and grinding the spindle.