The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop do I need to use a brake booster with disk brakes

I have a 53 3100, someone other than me COBed in a mII from under a car, but they put GM calipers and rotors on it. I'm trying to figure out weather I need to run a power brake booster on this set up or can I run just a duel master cyl.and still be able to stopwithout any problems. It will still be in the stock location. any help please

You could get away without a booster, but since disk brakes are not self energizing like the original drums are, braking effort will be increased and they won't be as effective. From personal experience with both boosted and manual disk brakes, you would be much better off installing a booster along with the dual master cylinder.

thanks , i was trying to deside weather to use the stock peddles or to mount in on the fire wall. it's not going to be a show truck, but a good dailey driver

The do make boosters that work in the stock loacation, if you choose to go that way. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Stock location has the advantages of an existing mount location and keeping the firewall clean, but they tend to need residual valves due to being mounted so low, and can be hard to service due to location. Firewall mounts has the advantages of being mounted at the highes point in the system as well as easy service, but require the firewall be reinforced to allow for mouting. So it really just comes down to personal preference.

Hanney, firstly welcome.
As Bill (Longbox55) mentions,there are boosters that fit the stock assemblies.
Here's mine.
I've removed the clutch pedal as I'm running an auto trans,but as Bill said it's down to personal preference.
My only gripe is as Bill also mentioned is the servicing.
I've found a new use for a turkey baster though!(Topping up fluid)

You'll find the pedal pressure very high, and you may be able to stop but the effort will be annoying to drive (and requires constant attention if auto trans, or it will drag through a red light).
The alternative to a booster is to increase the pedal leverage to apply more force at the master through more travel at the pedal (move the pushrod hole closer to the pivot), but that may be inconvenient.

Welcome to the bolt.

Racing world uses discs without power boosters. like the stock AD, they have a higher mechanical advantage than a typical car. however they do have a bit more pedal feel and depending on load, may require more force.

It will come down to the size of the M/C bore and the size of the brake calipers.

However I would run a brake booster in the stock location myself.

Thanks to all, You's have been a very big help. I want to do this on the low budget side, but I also want a safe ride. Thanks again

do not skimp on brakes.

Ditto

As stated previously, manual disks can work fine, and are frequently used in racing. I prefer them myself. The trick lies in getting the bore sizes correct.

Do some research and find out exactly what model brake calipers you have. You'll need to know when it comes time to replace the pads anyway. Most likely GM metric mid-size calipers, aka 78-87 A-body, Malibu, Monte Carlo, Grand National, etc. Check the bore diameter of the caliper, then look back in the past when cars were available without power disks, late 60's and early 70s. Find another vehicle with that diameter calipers and find out what the bore size is of the corresponding master cylinder. Then you can use any master cylinder with that bore size that will bolt up.

Your pedal should already be set for manual brakes if it is original.

Devin

Devin pretty much summed up my feelings about manual brakes on the AD truck. My 54 is using a disc conversion on the front with drums on the rear, with an adjustable proportioning valve so I can fine-tune the bias as driving conditions warrant. Feedback is good and the system is simple. I used a late 60's Corvette manual disc/drum master which was surprisingly inexpensive and locally available. If you want to check out parts or applications I like:

www.rockauto.com

Dave

hanney,

Don't overlook the simple solution, a manual master from a chevy 1/2 ton C-10. I have found about half of the C-10s in the salvage yards around here are manual front discs. I got everything that I am in the process of installing on my '56 from several different mid '70s trucks. I got lucky and found one with a new manual dual master for front discs. The receipt was in the glovebox! Anyway, I got the pedal assembly, the master and it's mounting hardware, and the lines to the frame and the OEM proportioning valve that is on the front crossmember. The calipers that I have appear to be the same size as the ones from the truck, so I believe everything will work. The rear wheel cylinders are the same bore. I believe that this will give me braking equal to a mid '70s C-10 on my 1956. If you cut the pivot off the frame, it will also give you a super easy clutch linkage hook up, and the easiest carb hook up going.

NO, it is NOT stock. It does use all Chevy parts, and like you, I want a dependable daily driver. Chevrolet did the research on the pedals and brakes and I'm going to take advantage of their work.

Why make things hard and costly? Anyway, all this is just my $.02!

Best wishes and best of luck! Please keep us posted on your progress.

Les

Roadmarks good show. That's what I call prodified, using later production parts.

Larry

The stock location seems to be the easiest to mount. Jacking with the firewall is not my idea of a fun Sunday afternoon. After-all haw often do you need to add brake fluid?

Jock, where are your proportioning valves on yours?