The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Frame Paint

Thanks Dan, you just confirmed what I've always thought.

Me too.

I'm NOT saying there is anythinbg wrong with POR15 or other similar products. To the contrary, I am willing to say they're probably superior products. In my case, its just that my frame is not rusty (or someone already removed it..mechanically or by blasting). SO why would I go to the expense, exposure? I'm using "regular" Rustoleum on my frame.

Beings were talking paint here I'd like to mention one more thing and ask a question about saving paint.
Last year I got some of that high dollar, hi-toxic,last forever type of paint. I guess cause they said you could bend it,slap it,beat it with a hammer type of paint called Chassis Saver.
It's UV sensitive so you have to top coat or it dulls up real good in the sun, and they say don't get it on your skin cause you'll have to wear it off. That's true, my finger is still a little black after 5 days.

The big problem is how to keep the paint, as soon as there is an air space in the can it forms a hard dry cover over the paint.
Right now I'm trying a little experiment, I'm turning the can upside down so the dry cover will be on the bottom when I open the can again.
I get that same thing with Rusto paints also, which was not the case 30/40 years ago. Back then the paint would let the oils come to the top and the color settle to the bottom, stir it up and you'd be good to go.
I called Rusto and asked if they changed the paint cause it sure drys faster now. They wouldn't admit to a change and said put some thinner on top to save it. Ya right, that didn't do the trick.
Any of you guys had the same thing with your paint or know of a trick to deal with it ?
Now, am I impressed with the hi buck paint? Over all, No It stinks up the whole shop,toxic,drys up in the can, and cost a lot. Will it last better? Crap, I'll have to wait another 30 years to find out !!

Dan

I always put a little co2 in the can when closing. eliminates the skin forming. I sorta think painting the frame for anything other than rust prevention is a waste of time. I did mine all pretty last year. When I took the box off this fall the frame looked like it had before the paint job, I'm sorry but I don't wash down there very often.

hmmmm, so some of you guys are happy with rusto(tremclad to me)and some say use high end paint for trailering purposes,now i dont mind spending a few extra dollars on por15 or whatever,but if rusto.paints can stand the test of time then....i want to drive my truck, i dont have a trailer but i will show it and cruise the heck out of it,then park it for winter months.so if tremclad(rusto) still looks/wears good after 10 or so years then is it worth the headaches?i just dont want to waste my time on tremclad/rust-o-leum if it is gonna suck after two years.so rusto or por15?????

I used black rust o leum It looks fine under the dirt
I too don't have a trailer, just drive it to shows and down to the local watering hole occasionally. Put it up for about 6 months snow months.

I'm going Rustoleum. But I'm in sunny Southern California and my truck has little or no rust on the frame.

If I were you living in the "frozen North? I think I'd default to the more protective paint assuming you can afford it. Just my $.02

gazim, Thanks for that tip. I had thought of co2 but had not tried it yet.
As far as which paint,I know the result after 37 years of limited abuse. It was a nice car and I treated it nice,like if I ran into a gravel road I drove slow and tried to avoid them.
Think coverage, I put two good coats of each on with a brush. I happen to be real good with a brush and can get a finish that looks like it was sprayed.
Spray painting is hard for good coverage in tight places and pockets, but if coverage is excellent then you have sealed up the surface and it stays sealed.
I 'm going to take some of that high $ stuff and put it on some old piece and throw rocks at it leave it outside for mother nature to work on and see how it does. Ya, I know it sounds a bit silly but maybe it will show something.
Dan

Sounds like everybody has used different stuff. To me the only guys that can boast of how good the paint is would be those that have had it painted for years and years. If it's still holding up that's the paint to use.

On the skimming issue, the fancy rust inhibiting paints are moisture curing. They are annoying in that you need to either use the whole container or pour out enough for your work in a seperate container and then throw attempt to save and ultimately throw away the excess. Once they have prolonged exposure to moisture (aka, air), they film over in the container.

I put syran wrap over the container before shutting the lid tight so that they don't become unopenable quart containers.

I don't think there is that considerable of a price difference. $30/quart verses $15/quart rustoleum + primer ($4/spray can)...

a guy on a vw website has some very lenghty non-labratory scientific testing with pictures see link:
rust product thread

Saran wrap is a good idea--BUT if you use a big piece and push it down onto the top of the paint in the can it will help eliminate the skim.
Good luck with your project.
Glenn

Dan brings up an excellent point. He lives in California... For those of us in climates where we don't get much rust we can get away with less durable paint products. I now live in Colorado, I use Rustoleum products for painting frame / under the truck stuff. When I lived in Ohio I always used epoxy products for these applications, sometimes then using undercoat over that.

So geographical location is also a part of choosing what to use.

This isn't helping!!! I've been tryin to decide on a good rust prevention after sandblast, and I live in the rustbelt, Wisconsin. Kinda leanin tward zero rust now...decisions decisions

After all that's been said you haven't picked up a clue yet.
Okay you live in the cheese state,if you intend on driving in the snowy slush which means also salt I would be looking for max protection.
On the other hand I can't understand why you would blast the frame and then put it through the elements like winter gives you up there.
I know moisture is still a factor up there even in the nice times of the year but I came out of Illinois and my Rusto painted car spent 27 years up there.
I haven't used zero rust but if they have a good primer and it was a good as Rusto I'd use it.
The one thing I've noticed with Rusto's new formula,( an assumption on my part due to how fast it drys ) is that it's a little hard to keep a wet edge using a brush.
I was using some last Sat. and set the brush down for 15-20 min. and it had already started to dry and what I painted was dry to touch in two hours.
I've sprayed Rusto and it's new quicker dry time is a help for that but for brushing it's a little too fast.
The Rusto of 30 years ago would need a whole day to dry.

I would make a choice based on the use/abuse you intend on putting it through and no less than 2 coats of each for good coverage. I hope this helps.

Dan

If you are so concerned about the frame appearence, why would you drive it in the winter anyway?

i'm not gonna drive it in the winter, i just dont want it to be an issue for me ever. you dont have to drive it to get it to rust here. plus i wanna do it right the first time. and yeah i have picked up clues. just looking for the right product because the weather is harsh up here winter or summer, drive or not driving it in the winter. anyways....i think i'm gonna go with zerorust from what i've gathered from other sites and this one as well.

From one Dan to another? Decaf, dude. Decaf...

Ya Dan I hear ya, I was just putting down what first came to mind, which did raise an eyebrow when my wife read it.
I'll admit sometimes I'm a little too blunt. I'm here to enjoy and learn, but have a little fun also.
But I don't like decaf.
I'd like to try some zero rust to see how it goes on, but I can't say I've ever seen it around here.
From Dan to another, thanks for the hint. lol
Dan