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#593693 11/19/2009 2:40 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 169
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 169
Came across this little gem http://www.mediafire.com/?dg9cx0zaoqn

Its a link to a book called the Key to Metal Bumping, which to many is considered the Bible of dent repair. Great book and awesome reading on the PROPER methods of dent removal.

One can buy reprinted versions on ebay but this link is free...Eric


Currently working on custom metal and How to videos.

1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
70 chevelle SS455
Pictures of my work and projects
http://community.webshots.com/user/sevt_chevelle
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 71
D
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 71
Chevelle:

I have that book. Originally written in the 1930's and reprinted over and over. The author helped design the original hammer and dolly tools still used everywhere today. When I had problems with humps in the metal panels I went back and studied his system. This guy really understood how metal reacts to damage and how to correct it without using a sledgehammer and gallons of Bondo. It has saved me many hours of work.

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 19
F
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 19
Thanks for this! I am sure it will come in handy as I start working on my '61!

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,038
My son (Lightholder) got me that book, along with a set of hammers and dollies. It is, indeed, a very good monograph on the subject, although I am no expert. I am taking an autobody class at a local community college, just to gain some knowledge as I work on the restoration of my '50 COE. My only comment would be that the monograph, written long ago, of course, does not include issues with metal bumping on modern vehicles with thinner alloy sheet metal. Specifically, you may get "waves" away from where you are working if you use direct "hammer on dolly". This does not tend to happen with the mild steel used in our older trucks.


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 169
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Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 169
The issue with the "newer" metal is not that it is thinner, most in fact is not thinner, but because the metal is not mild or draw quality steel but rather high or ultra high strength steel.

This metal is stronger and also tends to spread the damage out farther.
The same basic principles apply to the metal used on a 32 ford as does a 09 ford. You just need to work harder when dealing with the newer stuff.

Heres my 2007 dodge truck, used the same methods and tools as any other project just took longer to work.
[IMG]http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/27201/2105465380102553149S200x200Q85.jpg[/IMG]

Here it is almost ready for primer, and it WILL NOT require body filler just a few coats of primer
[IMG]http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/30360/2067052600102553149S200x200Q85.jpg[/IMG]

First coat of epoxy primer
[IMG]http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/44973/2835938130102553149S200x200Q85.jpg[/IMG]

If you are seeing waves am guessing it because the damage is actually extended farther out then you think.

Last edited by sevt_chevelle; 11/20/2009 12:35 AM.

Currently working on custom metal and How to videos.

1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
70 chevelle SS455
Pictures of my work and projects
http://community.webshots.com/user/sevt_chevelle

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