The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Modifing the T-5

Happy Easter Everyone,
Can any of you T-5 guys pipe in on the best ways to make the nessary modifications on the input shaft and the 4 mounting holes.I was considering just carefully grinding the input shaft down with a hand grinder and reaming the holes with a power drill.Sounds crude but it would be a lot cheaper than taking it to a shop.
Aaron :rolleyes:

Happy Easter Aaron.

I never even considered the possiblity of a shop. I used a drill and reamed the holes to 1/2". I used a hacksaw to cut the bearing collar down. I used a hand grinder to grind the input shaft. I test fit it. All's well.
Good Luck.

Colin

Thanks Colin,
Thats what I think I'll do too,I just be very careful.I will be putting mine behind a 250,I think it should be a good combo.Thanks again for the reply, Aaron

depending on your application you may not have to modify any thing on your new T5
what's the application first b4 you cut ???

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If you have the time, try sliding the t-5 into the bellhousing and pilot bushing with the clutch and then observing from below the bellhousing with the cover removed. Some crankshafts have 'deeper' holes for the pilot bushing and then you don't need to do anything, others are more shallow and the end of the input shaft hits bottom before the tranny is fully inserted. Shortening the nipple end of the input shaft is pretty easy- you can use a file or a grinder or a hacksaw or any combination of those! If you cut it, bevel the end a little, like it was before you cut it, it makes it easier to install.

The input shaft end only needs to be modified if the input shaft will not insert all the way into the rear of the crank/pilot bushing. The bearing collar only needs to be cut if the clutch/pressure plate don't have enough travel on the splines when its installed. I think it needs to be able to move 5/16" away from the fly wheel? If you don't have enough travel its because the collar is in the way, so just cut off enough to allow sufficient travel. You can either pull the collar from the tranny and use a hack saw to cut off the 1/2" (or whatever), or do it without removing the collar. It's like cutting a piece of pipe- very easy.

The mounting holes only need to be made slightly bigger if the bolts that fit your bellhousing won't fit through the existing holes. Then you find the right sized drill bit and just run it through the holes, no big deal.

Thaanks Guys,
I am getting a 250 out of 78 Nova I havent pulled it yet it has a 3 speed manual trans behind it now.Hopefully it will require fewer mods to the T-5 Thanks again,Aaron

I did it the same way Colin did...holes with a 1/2" hand drill, bearing retainer with a cut off wheel on a chop saw then ground smooth and hand beveled the OD with a 4" grinder. Used the same 4" grinder to take about 1/4" off the input shaft. Worked out great for me. Just make sure that you measure about 4 times before you cut anything...once you take it off with a saw or grinder its REALLY hard to put it back on.

If you get one from a v8 Camaro, no cutting involved. it does have more splines though.

A:
My buddy has a machine shop so the mods were easy enough. The easiest way to determine what you will need is to compare the transmission you're replacing (you mentioned a three speed)to the T5.
Put them side by side and measure them up. You may get lucky and only have to repalce the clutch and PP. We were replacing the old 4 speed rock crusher trans, and had to cut the input shaft drill our the mounting holes and trim the bearing support. In any case even if you've got to perform the same work we had to and don't feel comfortable doing it yourself and good auto machine shop should be able to do the work reasonably.
JimBo

I actually used the pressure plate from the SM-420 and the clutch disc from the truck I pulled the tranny from. It was the same diamter as the one on the SM-420!

I also used a hydraulic throw out bearing and clutch master cylinder, but that was 'cause the clutch arm was hitting the power brake booster.