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#59185 04/14/2006 1:01 PM
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Looks like I have a rear main seal leak. I assume the pan must come down and the bearing cap off of course. Can I buy a split seal like a 350 and can I get the old seal out without dropping the crank. Tips, techs and general good sense advice will be appreciated.
New Guy ........Bustingear


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#59186 04/14/2006 5:26 PM
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yes you can get a newer style seal. check the tech. tips section for procedure.

#59187 04/14/2006 5:49 PM
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welcome to the garage Bustin - the seal can be replaced w/o dropping the crank, but loosening might make it less of a struggle - general good sense would be getting the correct rope seal so you don't have to do the job [and go to the store] twice

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
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#59188 04/14/2006 6:16 PM
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Once my pan was off it took me 30 minutes. I used a neoprene seal from Fel-Pro. I did not have to loosen any other caps so the crank could drop a bit. I was lucky as my old neoprene seal was pretty stiff and pulled out quite easily. If you get a two piece neoprene seal try to stagger the ends so they do not line up with the main cap/block join. Put one end in about a half inch past the block in the groove and the other will stick out accordingly. This will help stop future leaks.
Another thing. If I had my pan off I would take off the front cap and tap the two holes where the bolts go forward to the timing chain/gear cover. Then you can run the two bottom bolts on the cover in from the front. If you ever have to pull that cover to change the seal you will not have to pull the oil pan.


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#59189 04/15/2006 1:04 AM
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Got under for the inspection.

Back of block dry
Valve cover gasket dry
Back of oil pan dry.
Main Bearing cap inside of clutch cover -WET ....but dry on panside
Clutch plate dry
Throw out bearing -Wet
Clutch fork-Wet
back inside of clutch housing -WET
Front of flywheel clutch plate -dry

What do uou make of this?
This car is a manual overdrve unit of it matters.


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#59190 04/16/2006 2:51 PM
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Any other suggestions?


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#59191 04/16/2006 3:09 PM
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Quote
Originally posted by olblu49:

Another thing. If I had my pan off I would take off the front cap and tap the two holes where the bolts go forward to the timing chain/gear cover. Then you can run the two bottom bolts on the cover in from the front. If you ever have to pull that cover to change the seal you will not have to pull the oil pan.
THAT is a pain in the A$$!! Especially on my 38 with the dipper troughs in the pan. Good tip.


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#59192 04/16/2006 3:19 PM
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Hy bustingear, How's the trans oil level, could it be overfull?

#59193 04/17/2006 1:27 AM
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Would the trans iol come out the frony around the throw out bearing if overfull?


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#59194 04/17/2006 2:17 AM
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Hy bustingear, there is no seal at the front of most standard shift transmissions the only thing that keeps the oil in is it being at the right level [always fill with the truck on the level through the plug on the side of the trans, the correct level is up to the bottom of the plug threads.] I'm not saying thats your problem, it's just one thing to eliminate, hopethat helps.

#59195 04/17/2006 2:22 AM
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Thanks. There seems to be plate with 3 or 4 bolts in the front of the tranny. Does thst need a gasket? This eventually surronds the output shaft and has a hole in the bottom. The throwout beraing and the fork are really wet as is the back of the bellhousing?


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