The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Chevy C60 Hoist

Hi. I bought a '63 Chevy C60 at my grandpa's farm auction last Sunday. They said the hoist didn't work but for $375 I couldn't pass it up. I didn't know much about the truck except that grandpa used it to haul cattle mostly and it ran like a watch. This what I know about the hoist so far. It is a GarWood system which I've discovered made a lot of them but not anymore. The gear pump has 2 input shafts so depending on the application, you can mount the pto to either one so it's turning the right way I guess. The seal on one of these shafts was popped out of the housing but didn't look damaged. I looked on the web for about 2 hrs. unsuccessfuly trying to find replacements even though I have numbers off the old ones (CR2030835 or CR2030635 can't tell if it's a 6 or 8). Anyhoo I cleaned it up, put the old seals back in and after getting oil in it (another story) it was working very well until I topped it off with oil that last time and "popped" the seal out as it was lowering. My main question is "how do I determine the proper oil level in this system"? It has no reservoir and there is a 3/8" pipe plug in the top of the cylinder. If anyone wants to take a shot at those seal numbers that would be awesome. I haven't found too much info on this type of system except on this site and that's why I joined up. This my first post and any info would be much appreciated!

For most hoists, leave the pipe plug/cap loose and very slowly let the bed down to release any excess fluid. Also, add a little at time, raise, lower, so there isn't a large amount to come out. Otherwise, it has no place to go and will find the easiest way out, through a seal or gasket. We would leave the plug off completely and cycle it, but that makes for more of a mess on the underside of the bed if you let it down fast. We considered it additional rust-proofing.

it should have a pressure release valve where the fluid goes in

Scott nailed it.
Leave the plug out the first time you let it down. Ideally, if you could fill it in the down position, you would not have a problem, but usually that's not possible.

Also, it goes without saying, that anytime you're under that bed when it's raised up, make sure you have it blocked securely. Guys have been killed when a truck box fell on them.

I must respectfully disagree with joek3167. There is no pressure relief on a closed system underbody. The seal is actually very easy to come by at any industrial seal supply house. You'll find one in any large metro area. They will only need the ID/OD and depth of the seal area so supply something that will work, probably a chevron style. They are pretty cheap also.

I used to always drill a 3/16 hole thru the pipe plug you mentioned and put a cotter pin in it to keep the bigger contaminants out (butterflies, hummingbirds, etc) as this would allow for a degree of expansion of the oil and allow any air to escape w/o making big issue out of service to bleed the system. It always worked for me but I am getting kind of old and memory is only a fleeting memory...

These guys in Omaha have any parts you need. I have ordered a lot of hard to get stuff from them. http://www.baumhydraulics.com/home.php

Thanks for all the replies guys. I think I'm on the right track now. I really like the idea of drilling a hole and putting a cotter pin in it. We were talking at work today and wondering how you get the air out of the system or if it was even a problem. I was pointed towards Baum earlier today after making a few calls to other places. They have a nice website and I set up an account with them today, but haven't actually talked to them yet about the seals. I go through Omaha everyday to work so it'll be handy! Actually I'm going to look at another parts truck tomorrow with a steel dump box so I may not even use this box much. I know a guy who is interested in the grain box so at least I can pass along the info. The guy with the parts truck says it hasn't ran "for a few years" but ran "real good" when they parked it. Same motor and drive train as what I have so I may be trying to get it going tomorrow and bring 'er home. He wants about $500 for it but says the box is good so I figure it's probably worth that. The one I got from my Grandpas sale is pretty darn straight and between the two I may get something pretty nice going. I'll try to get some pics taken in case anyone wants to see how this goes.
Thanks again, Curt

Back to the breather part of the thread but you can get an actual breather plug in 3/8" pipe thread that would work. The ones we have where I work (at a John Deere dealership) have a small hole with an internal screen in them to keep the contaminates out. A lil more expensive than modifying the exsistant plug, but alot easier.

Just my two cents..... Brent


They run between 3 and 5 dollars through the supplier we get them from....