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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 48 | I spent most of the day at the wrecking yard to obtain the missing handle and small parts for my '57 3600 parking brake.
Got home, pulled the trans floor cover, and discovered that the reason my handle is missing is that it was removed after the mounting pin broke.
This is a pin pressed into the trans top cover on the right side.
It's broken off below the casting surface, no way to grip it from the outside!
Does anyone know if I will be able to push it out from the inside after removing the trans top cover?
Other suggestions?
Source for a replacement pin?
1957 Chevy 3600At these prices I want my gas 100 octane, leaded, and my windshield washed! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Hi Richard, I'm not familiar with that style of parking brake mechanism,but would it be possible to drill and tap a thread in the remaining part of the pin?
I'm thinking you could then try and draw the pin out with some kind of puller or slide hammer. Although access might be a problem.
Just a thought, but hang tight someone else may chime in with an alternative/better idea.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,851 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,851 | I'd go for the drill/tap/slide hammer procedure, if it's possible to center-drill the remaining piece of pivot pin. If it's hardened to the point it's hard to drill, you can anneal it with a torch until it can be drilled. To do that, point an acetyline torch flame to the center of the pin, and get it red hot. Let it cool slowly, and it should be softened enough to drill and tap it. Screw a correct size bolt in, and slidehammer it out. If the transmission top cover is removed and mounted on a drill press table, the above procedure will be a lot simpler.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 469 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 469 | I've removed pressed in pins with the drill and tap method and used a stack of washers a good grade stud and nut with good results. Most pins like that are case hardened leaving the center part not to hard to drill. If you use this method be careful and drill only deep enough to get the pin. | | |
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