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#576321 09/21/2009 4:21 AM
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i searched but didn't find specifics on high temp engine paint; any leads?

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Just about every Auto parts store sells it unless you want some off the wall color. If you're just painting the outside of the block I have used regular old Rustoleum w/out problems...Joe

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#576347 09/21/2009 7:28 AM
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Personally I used this
Here's a shot of it on my engine
I'm pleased with the results and POR also do header paint.

Check out the links section of the forum for vendors near you.Look under corrosion fighting.


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yeah, i know what to try and where to get it, have some in me basement, but i wasn't sure if this was the forum under-which to ask the question; ie, it'll get moved

but since; my concern is the side/valve covers, and the oil pan. in the past, that type of metal doesn't seem to hold the paint very well/nicks easily and isn't long lasting in general. vinegar wash-etch/scrubbie/steel wool/sand paper, primer? maybe even powder coat

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I always washed any motor stuff I'm painting down paint thinner completely. Then shot the paint on it w/o primer & haven't had a problem w/it coming off down the road or rusting...Joe

#576853 09/22/2009 6:03 PM
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its all in the prep work. if the block isn't clean the paint will only last a short while. and any basic engine primer should do the trick. unless your running a top fuel engine =P


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right, but my concern as cited in me post is the side/valve covers, the oil pan, and not the block

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o. well if your rebuilding the engine, then do them one at a time. if you can unbolt the part from the engine like the headers, and vavle covers. use a grease cutter like engine degreaser or simple green. and do it on a table outside with engine paint. they also make special header paint, its sold everywhere. just eliminate any impurities like oil or grease when it comes to any paint.


2000 Nissan Frontier, 3.3L (sold)
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS, 2.4L
1952 Chevy 1/2 pickup, 235 c.i. I6
when life speeds up, downshift
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yeah za - the engine is completely disassembled and was tank de-greezed/ cleaned at the machine shop. but my concern is with getting the paint to be well adhered to the sheet metal parts, bec in the past, 'slick' metals of an kind don't seem to 'hold' paint real well

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Hi. I'm impressed with the engine primer and paint made by Bill Hirsch. He has a primer specifically intended for non-cast steel. I have used both the spray paint and brush on paint and both seem to perform well.

Good Luck!
Dan M.

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Bill Hirsch....specifically intended for non-cast steel

thanks, i'll google him

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i'll ask my dad. he knows more


2000 Nissan Frontier, 3.3L (sold)
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS, 2.4L
1952 Chevy 1/2 pickup, 235 c.i. I6
when life speeds up, downshift
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Anything that will scuff the smooth surfaces will make paint stick better,220 sandpaper would do.

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yeah coal - that, sand blasting, and steel wool have become options, bec, like a block, they end up with a rough surface. i'm gonna ask a body man about the final prep of body sheet metal that allows primer to hold so well

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Sheet metal is sheet metal, doesn't matter if its a hood or oil pan. Treat it as any other body panel. 220 sanding, primer, paint. If it comes off, then something wasn't clean.

Extra cleaning is the only difference, use a good quality prep cleaner or wax and grease remover. From there its standard painting.

Heat has nothing to do with paint coming off, it will change colors and bubble if really hot, but still won't flake off.

I painted a Stanley Steamer hood that regularly sees fire all day long and after 15 years needed some touch work.

Joe

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220, primer, paint sounds like the ticket. and hirsch has a self-etching primer that has an etching acid component in it


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