The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks lowering my 65

I want to lower my 65 c10 with 2.5 drop spindles in the front and 3" drop springs in the back. As this is just about an equal drop will I need to change the cross member under the cab where the drive shaft goes threw.?? or will the drop being that close on both ends keep things ok.?

you will have no trouble . I went 2.5 drop spindles in front and 4 inch drop coils in the back with shorter shocks in the back. I had to get a adjustable pan hard bar for the rear end to center it to body after the drop.

please forgive me I am new to all this.
Pan hard bar for the rear end?

Gotcha... what some call tracking bar..
thank you for the explain..and the info

Can you get a Pan Hard Bar or Tracking bar kit for a replacement rear axle?

Guys, I would like to lower my 64 about 2" front and back. I was thinking I could get some 2" drop spindles for the front and some 2 " blocks for the back...

Sound doable? I would not think i would have to mess with the tracking bar only going down 2", Right?

michael 1964,
i hope that is true..... I am kind of counting on that myself.
one thing if did read some where,and this applies to my situation only, but i will pass it along, my truck is all original and the info was to replace the rubber/urethan bushings on the tracking bar once it is lowered. even if they are only 10 or so years old.. it stated urethan was the better choice. but by doing this, it was helping to insure the proper function and operation of the bar after the change is the truck stance...in my csse they really would need it anyway just from age...they are realitively cheap so I think I will. my $.02

BTW anybody know if I use the drop spindles do I have to go with disk brake conversion on the front??? I was hoping to just drop it and stay with the drums..my view or goal is to stay as original as possible I am keeping the original s6.
not going to muscle it out or anything like that..

I used 2" lowering springs (coils) all around. Didn't change anything else, and it works fine.
Kinda want to go lower, but don't have the $$ now. Putting the box back on and the 327 in will probably squat her a little more, anyway.
I like the stock giant drum brakes.

Did anyone see the question about the drop spindles?

"BTW anybody know if I use the drop spindles do I have to go with disk brake conversion on the front??? I was hoping to just drop it and stay with the drums.."


If you know it would help me too...

Info I read said that you'd have to use disc brakes with the new drop spindles. Drop springs are a lot cheaper but I've never used them. Don't know if you would still have the same problems as cut coil springs

Yep, you have to go with discs

I lowered my 65 with 1 inch lower springs in the front and 3 inch lower springs in the rear and it worked really well. I did change the front to disc brakes using a kit from CPP. Easiest swap I have ever seen. Lowered springs, to me, is the easiest and most economical way to lower.

I am guessing that I will just go with drop springs.... So far I have not seen any for the back less than 3". So i am not sure 2 in the front and 3 in the rear would look right to me.

It is a shame you can see it before hand... like before you spend the money to get springs.

Do you guys know of a place that has 2" drop for the rear?

When I did mine I went by LMC's catalog. They recommend going 2 inches lower in the rear than in the front to keep things looking level. If you can get on their website or in their catalog you can see pictures of the different levels of drop. I thought it was pretty helpful in making the decision on how to lower.

Michael:
I got mine from Brothers Trucks...