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#575189 09/17/2009 6:07 PM
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I finally got my 1958 engine out of my 1949 Chevy. Now I need to bolt it to my new engine stand. What size bolts do I need, and does anyone have a picture of what this will look like.

Rocko #575202 09/17/2009 6:29 PM
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If I remember correctly they would be 7/16" x 14 thread pitch and length according to your type mount. Some people hook the engine stand up with to the clutch housing with the clutch,pressure plate and flywheel removed, but I prefer to bolt the stand right to the back of the block. Mount the rotating head of the engine stand to the block and then hoist the block to hook to the stand itself. A word of caution: Inline 6's because of their length can tip an engine stand very easily,especially the 3 legged stand. A 4 legged stand is better. In any case make sure the block is properly supported as you rotate it or move it around. Good Luck with your project.


Drew
Rocko #575203 09/17/2009 6:32 PM
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Take the flywheel housing off and bolt it directly to the block using the holes where the housing bolted to. Depending on the mounting brackets, you will probably need bolts 1/2" longer then what were used to bolt the housing to the block. Same thread of course.

Rocko #575213 09/17/2009 6:50 PM
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there are 4 holes, the top two are 7/16 but the bottom two are a different size, before I don't have anything in my garage that fit for example before I run to store?

Rocko #575236 09/17/2009 8:53 PM
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On My 52 - 216 they are all the same , take the stock bolt with You to the store and than just get a longer one .


Pete

Pete52 #575279 09/17/2009 10:50 PM
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Could be the wrench size is different but the bolt is the same.

crenwelge #575492 09/18/2009 5:10 PM
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yes, tipping on a 3 leg. mine makes me very cautious, and when i get it to it's final destination, i use temporary, 2x2 wooden legs to the floor for stabilization. and for some reason, my stand's arm's holes would not accept my block, and after 6 configurations, i drilled extras in-between

Rocko #575498 09/18/2009 5:18 PM
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bwaahahahah... yes this can be a tricky thing to do as I "built" a 250 six for my 67' nissan patrol. it had it's moments when I thought the whole shebang was going to fall over and then I used a lighter weight stand than a heavier one as I did not know better at the time as they can hold different wieghts according to their specific use good luck and be careful!!!!! sdsmooth aka socketdropper.

sdsmooth #575503 09/18/2009 5:47 PM
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I have a 50 year old heavy engine stand. I have seen some real flimsy things out there lately. However, I still bolt a leg to the front of the engine. I have a 3/4 square tube inside a 1" square tube that telescopes and has a set screw with a 18" T welded on one end and a piece of flat with a 3/8" hole on the other end. One bolt in a water pump mounting holes sure stabilizes it a lot. Especially when I am torquing head bolts or main caps.

crenwelge #575504 09/18/2009 6:07 PM
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Originally Posted by crenwelge
I have a 50 year old heavy engine stand. I have seen some real flimsy things out there lately. However, I still bolt a leg to the front of the engine. I have a 3/4 square tube inside a 1" square tube that telescopes and has a set screw with a 18" T welded on one end and a piece of flat with a 3/8" hole on the other end. One bolt in a water pump mounting holes sure stabilizes it a lot. Especially when I am torquing head bolts or main caps.
That is a clever idea. You should submit it with a schematic or pic to Tech Tips.


Drew
DrewP #575509 09/18/2009 6:15 PM
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yes, an excellent idea! i'm puttin the 2xs in the fireplace, and headin to the basement. thanks

DrewP #575532 09/18/2009 7:30 PM
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wow maybe even a patent on it as an accessory item for flimsy stands!!!!!! mine was so bad I had to put the head on after it was in the patrol......


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