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Dear All:

On the way to Lowes last week, a big cloud of white smoke began following me as I pulled into the parking lot. Turns out the lower oil filter hose had sprung a leak and was shooting oil onto the exhaust pipe. This turned into Sherwood's first ride on a flatbed -- the wife said it looked like he was coming home on a gurney!

Sherwood is a 1954 3100 with a 235 engine.

I searched the various parts houses and found a pair that seemed correct from Jim Carter. They arrived, and I was a bit disappointed from the start in that they're printed along the side, "For use on handheld grease guns only." Oh well.

Then I examined the tips on the replacements. The originals each had one tip with a regular, "square" tip, and the other end with a tapered tip. The tapered tips both connected to the canister. The replacements do not have the tapered tips, just square on both ends.

After some thought, I figured they would work, thinking that if it came to it, I could wrap some teflon plumber's tape around the ends.

I went to put them on this evening, and found that while the tips do fit into the engine openings, they do not fit into the cannister. They are a bit too small, enabling me to work them in to the opening without even screwing them in.

So, before I start ordering hoses from more parts houses, I have two questions for you fine folk:

1. Has anyone ever found the hoses as I'm describing my originals; and

2. Is it possible to take my old tips to a hydraulic shop and have them make new hoses for them?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best Regards,

John

I've nevr really looked for them from the parts houses, I just took my old ones to the flaps and had new ones made. You should be able to get new ones made up with the correct ends, they are still available new. BTW, the tapered end is 1/8" NPT, the other end is 1/4" double flare, just like a brake line. In fact, I used 1/4" brake line to make my oil filter lines, with 2 lengths of flaps sourced rubber oil line to allow for flex.

Bill:

Thanks for the information. :-)

I forgot to mention that before I gave in to calling the tow truck, I walked across the street to an Advance Auto parts store with the old hoses in hand. They weren't able to help me, saying it was a "dealer part!"

I'll check another flaps that's smaller and owner-operated.

BTW, you said you used 1/4" brake line to make your own, but included rubber lines to "allow for flex." Are you saying you mixed steel lines with rubber hoses to make your own?

Thanks again for your help.

--John

In a nutshell, yes. The rubber lines are hooked up to the block like normal, then are attached to 1/4" steel brake line with the proper adapters. My filter is mounted to the left inner fender, rather than to the intake, which is why I needed longer lines. Rather than having very long rubber lines flopping around, I decided to use rigid steel line that is firmly attached to the fender.

I used reinforced rubber fuel line on my filter. Just be sure to route them away from heat sources.

I went to a local tractor store and had them make me a set. They put the correct fittings on each end and worked great, and half the price of so so aftermarket sold hose sets.

Gentlemen:

Thank you for the fine input!

Bill and Tiny: I went to your picture pages and looked at your oil line setups. Y'all have given me the information that I need, and so I will pursue fabrication of my own, rather than ordering from another parts house.

--John

Classic Parts has a set that include all the fittings & swivels. It is complete.

Go to the local flaps that builds hydraulic hoses. That one should be rather inexpensive, and the ends will be clamped in place. We build hoses like that at my work place all the time.

Easy to do. Will fit right.

Gentlemen: Thank you for further information on the subject.

Today, I took my dry-rotted originals to a hydraulic hose company. They're going fabricate some new ones and have them ready tomorrow.

Roy: Given that many of this company's products are supplied to large yacht owners (it's near Port Everglades), I don't know if I'm going to get away with an inexpensive part. I did tell them to go easy on me! We'll see what they decide to charge me.

Wrenchbender: If they leak, I'll look into the Classic Parts set!

--John

Gentlemen:

I thought I'd close out the string for future reference by someone else working on the same.

I picked up the new hoses last week, and they were pretty -- the guy making them spent some time making them out of hose that I think could be found on a Pratt & Whitney jet engine! Yes, they were expensive; double what I had already paid to Jim Carter.

Started on Saturday morning, put them on and then started the truck. Everything was leak proof except for a small weeping of oil on the canister connection of the lower hose. I tighted it up a but it was still weeping. Not feeling as if I could tighten it up any more, I took it off in order to apply some teflon tape to the threads.

I then began screwing the connection back in. Everything was going well until the hose tip spun free of brass connector on the bottom of the cannister. The connector had split!

Well, the cannister would have to come off now so I could get a look at what I was dealing with. Figured since I had it off, I might as well sand blast it and paint it back to orignal colors -- blue and orange.

After taking off the brass adapter on the bottom of the cannister, I was able to screw in the lower hose that I originally got from Jim Carter, and it doesn't leak. Don't know if not using the brass connector is going matter in the long run.

So, at the end of it all, I've spent double the money, and have a completely restored external oil filtration system. One thing always leads to another on a 55-year-old vehicle!

Again, thanks to everyone for the advice.