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#5741 03/25/2003 2:45 AM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 112
J
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Does any body know the I.D. of a Ad truck
steer column and the O.D. of the steering shaft
that goes through the tube column..I was wondering if they make a bearing to slip inside of the column over the shaft to secure it so it would not wobble...
The fellow I'm asking the question for wants to
keep his original steering column...but want to
change his front suspension...


1946 chevy 1/2 ton panel
1937 ford coupe
#5742 03/25/2003 4:35 AM
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There has been a thread here on the bolt about that very subject.
You should be able to find it by doing a search here on the ~Bolt cool
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I think the pilot-bearing from a semi truck is very close in dimensions.


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#5743 03/25/2003 1:30 PM
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On Chuckthetruck's great web site, I believe he has some pics of how he shortened his original steering shaft by cutting it and fitting another top shaft bearing at the bottom of the shaft. I'm not sure of the link, but I believe he had to ream out the bottom of the tube or something...maybe he will see this and explain it better.

#5744 03/25/2003 5:15 PM
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Thank you fellow bolters...chuckthetruck if you
got your ears on..hope you will reply..I read
your material posted (nice site)...how to keep
original column..I understood using the mask
bearing column on the lower end..inside the
column tube to support the shaft from wabbling
But I'm not quite sure what were the reasons for the two flat washer and the bronze thrust bushing.
And also did you ever figure out a way to secure
the column it self...Your reply would be apprecialted...jdhoward


1946 chevy 1/2 ton panel
1937 ford coupe
#5745 03/25/2003 8:03 PM
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The thrust washer arrangement was just to take the end load from the spring "upstairs". It may have worked without it, but it didn't hurt to add it. I searched to find a bearing that would drop in without machining and was unsucessful, but the upper mast bearing is working fine. I never did get around to adding more column support. It is still just the clamp at the dash and the flange at the floor. One of these days, but it is working fine. I did have to add a ground lead from the rack to the frame so the horn would work.

3600 miles now - just finished a 560 mile round-trip fishing expedition with no problems.

#5746 03/26/2003 2:01 AM
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Hey Chuck - do you tow a boat with your AD? I am building up my truck now from boxes of parts I got it in, and I have a small 16' BassTracker aluminum boat with a 50 HP and single axle trailer. I was wondering how I could rig up a reese hitch. Seems the bumper may be in the way, don't know for sure since I'm not that far yet, but if I need to hook to the frame, now is the time to do it, before I put the bed on.. any experience with this? thanks!!!

#5747 03/26/2003 2:54 AM
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The correct bearing is #6203. This is a common light duty ball bearing and can be found at any Toro lawn mower dealer. Cost - about $7.50.

#5748 03/26/2003 6:03 AM
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My truck came to me with a "Valley RV" hitch that has a tongue weight rating of 500 lbs and a tow weight of 5000, if I remember right. It is a thick 1/2", at least, flat chromed piece of metal that starts at a frame crossmember and goes between the bumper and the tailgate. I haven't used it but it looks to be quite strong and well installed.


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#5749 03/26/2003 12:42 PM
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Gobsow, no boat, I'm a shoreangler fishing for "America's Toughest Sportfish For 100,000,000 Years" Visit www.bowfinanglers.com (shameless plug)

Sixpack, my memory could be going but I believe the shaft was .75 diameter and the 6203 shows a .6693 ID. I suppose the shaft could be turned.
http://www.yida-bearings.com/bearing/6200%20series%20bearings.htm

#5750 03/27/2003 1:15 PM
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Chuck you are right on the shaft dia. I don't rememeber turning down the shaft but 6203 is the # on the bearing in my truck.


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