The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop pulling my engine and tranny??

1940 chevy 1/2 ton, I have removed fenders grill,radiator etc.. Engine very accessable,I want to pull everything , motor tranny and drive shaft all the way back to the rear end.. This thing has an enclosed drive shaft.Once the drive train is pulled I am taking the rolling chassis to a friend who will change the rear end and set it up for a new front suspension. we will end up with a 350/350. I am trying to do what I can before taking it to my friend,To save some coin.JUst stuck on easiest way to pull this out.Help

Can you pull the engine and transmission as one unit in a 40?

In an Advanced Design truck with 4 speed you can't unless the cab comes off first.

Grigg

Thanks, how does the drive line come off?

Well ya got me curiosity up Grigg, cus I'll be pulling mine sometime this month and I'd planned on taking it with the trans. I just went out and checked and you are absolutely correct, that is at least on the 3/4 ton. The cross member is solid riveted to the frame and the firewall prevents the SM420 from coming up high enough to clear the cross member. Drat, now I'm gonna have to wrestle that SM420 out from the bottom before I can get the engine out. Oh well, that will just add an extra day to my schedule.
Thanks
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

To remove drivetrain.....drop rear spring shackles,leave tires on, unbolt spring to diff mounts, unbolt enclosed driveshaft from transmission and roll the driveshaft/diff out the back. I prefer to separate the transmission from the engine before pulling. Both are heavy and combined you'd have to do some major twisting with nearly 900 pounds of iron on the end of the hook. Why take a chance? Separate!

Dave

dg - an extra day? c'mon? i'm a relatively inexperienced old man and i've wrestled similar to 420s without a trans jack and on plywood-covered ground

Yeah red but your not a nit picking old man like me. When I was a lad, I used to lay them there three speed transmissions on my chest and slide under on the creeper then just bench press them up into place. But alas, those days are long gone.
Dave gave me a good idea and I'm already measuring up for it and I've got a drawing started up on the cad. I'm really focused on wrestling that 150 pounder back in. Besides mine I'll probably be helping out my buddy this winter when we pull his motor.
Of course one could use a cherry picker to pull it but I don't always have access to one. Mine is buried behind out in the barn, and I can't get to it right now. I'm gonna borrow one later when I'm ready to pull the motor. At this place in time I've got garage wall on one side of the truck and three big old '50's radio consoles on the other so I can't access the transmission thru the doors. I could roll it out side this month but with the cold weather coming on I will no doubt be reinstalling things around the holidays so I'm gonna make it as easy as I can on myself.
DG

When I was about 14 or so (and skinny as a broomstick) my brother lowered a cast iron 4 speed by holding onto the shift lever (out of his '57 chevy truck) onto my chest , I thought I was going to die until he came under the truck and got it off me.

I remember that every time I've gotten under one again.

denny, for how long its gonna take to drop the tranny with a picker you just might be better off waiting until your ready to pull the motor. drop it to the floor unhook the chain and move the picker to the front and hook up with an engine angler or another chain and pull the motor. two birds with one stone. with everything prepared it sould only add another 30 mins to the job.

yeah dg, i follow ya, as i see we've walked similar paths. and i now wonder how i did some of the 'dangerous' things that i did. with a lotta luck. wish i was closer cuz i'd certainly drop by and lend a hand. and heck, i might even break down a buy a trans attachment for me floor jack this time around. bec i have a 4hp22 auto to put back in the volvo, and the swap of the 216/3sp/4.10 with the 235/700r/3.90. and as usual, it's gonna happen on 3/4 ply on dirt. just today, i spoke with a customer who bought back his machine shop 3months ago, and i'm dropping off the 235 on sat morn. it's been rebuilt before and still has the cross-hatching on the cylinders, but on red58's advice, since i was right there, i broke down the main and rod bearings, and it needs more serious attention from the condition of the surfaces of the bearings. and the money spent will be well worth the satisfaction from security. i'll list the individual costs when i get them

Rednate, (and others)

Just a suggestion....mention to your machinist to make sure that he resurfaces the rear main seal area on the crank. Felpro makes a main seal sleeve that will insure your new seal will do it's job.

Also might mention....trying to use the conventional engine hoist inside the cab to lower the sm420 didn't work for me. With the truck up on stands you don't have enough interior room to do much more than just support it. I wound up making a little 2x4 box frame (2x4's on edge) which surrounded the transmission cover area and with an old boat winch mounted on a 2x4 that spanned the box frame (parallel to the firewall). Made a rope harness for the transmission. Worked like a charm to support and slide the sm420 to the rear to clear the bellhousing. Used some vise-grips in place of the winch handle which let me (I'm a 1 man crew) lower it down while laying under the truck. I think I have some pics in my Webshots album. Hope this helps.

Dave

Just a suggestion....mention to your machinist to make sure that he resurfaces the rear main seal area on the crank. Felpro makes a main seal sleeve that will insure your new seal will do it's job.

yeah, i did read something about that. i'll print that for him