The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Misunderstanding codes?

Ok, I have been all over the site trying to figure out if I have everything original on my recent purchase. Especially having a hard time with paint, trim, and engine codes. Here goes:

Engine Stamp # 3764476

Head Stamp # 3836848

Intake # 3835527

Trim # RPO-431A

Paint # 769

This is a 57 3100 Big Window. I thought the paint was red, with ivory trim.
And I was told this is the original engine. Now I'm just not sure. Help!!!

Tom S.
Hoyleton,IL

Tom,

Those block and head casting codes were used over a few years. 1957 was one of the years.

If you post the engine serial number, it is often possible to determine the exact year. That code is pressed into the ledge in the block that is just to rear of where the distributor enters the block.

Also, if you find the block and head date casting codes (locatons are shown here), you can determine when these parts were made.

Tim

what's the id number on the door post or cowl tag?

tc - not that it makes much difference, but isn't the 1 in 1 29 9 actually an L in a different font? which would make it a dec 29 9. and an A would make it a jan 29 9

The truck is not apart, but I dang near am laying over the fender into the engine compartment and I cannot see any numbers just rear of the distributor. This is troublesome.

I have also been online with the paint codes and could not match anything to my numbers. The tag on the door post just says GVW 5000 and the paint #s and the trim #s.

I am glad this is the correct engine. Thank You.

Just concerned about the engine serial #.

Tom

rednate,

You are right about that first character being a letter, and, it makes a difference (in terms of figuring out other dates codes).

My guess is, however, that the character is an I rather than an L, making the date:

I 29 9 = September 29 1959 (does that seem to be reasonable?)

I have changed that page. If you see any other mistakes, please let me know.

Thanks,
Tim

Tom,

You might have to use a wire brush to clean up the engine serial number. It is not a raised casting code; it is pressed into the ledge and might be filled with dirt/oil/etc.

On the other hand, it might be a factory replacement engine (I do not know how Chevrolet marked them); or, it might be a used replacement engine and the serial number has been ground off (I have a 1954 235 that has no serial number but I can see that the number has been ground off).

Tim

tc, You make have the answer. I have gotten the metal clean behind the distributor, and no # is visible. Didn't even know they did that with engines. Thanks

tc - oh yeah, a diff font I. good catch

and, might his engine be a replacement gmc? i seem to recall reading something about gmc leaving the distributor ledge blank

low - you may not have the 'correct' engine. bec the charts say that the block is from '58-'62, and that might be a 'huh?' to find it in a '57. unless the factory had an excess inventory of '57 body/chassis into '58. the '56 head is very possible in a '57

look to the left of, and lower than, the distributor. the number(date code) would be in the style of your block #3764476, but it would be similar to A 11 1, and with something similar to CON 2 to it's left

A factory replacement GMC engine (228/248/270/302) has the engine size in cubic inches (and only that number) pressed into the ledge to the rear of the distributor.

The dealer also placed a yellow decal (black writing) on the radiator cover - it stated that a replacement engine had been installed (many of these decals are now unreadable or long gone).

Here is the 270 code on a replacement engine in my 54/55 GMC COE.

I think that lowrider57's block casting code and head casting code were both used between 1956-1962.

The "848" head became available in 1956.

If he cannot find an engine serial number, the head and block date casting codes will identify the year they were manufactured.

aw heck, the last two link/s won't link

This is what the stamped serial number should look like. I have seen them where they were stamped somewhat shallow, making them hard to read.

wow, that's a long one. what the heck's that from? my '61 235 is only 6 digits, and my 216 is 7. but the 216 doesn't have a con 'date stamp', and the block id is up in the very front, right behind the timing gear cover

That particular one os from a 235 in a '55 2nd series truck, whcih is a bit longer than most others. If you look, you'll see the code "255" in it. They did that to differentiate the code from the 1st series engines, which simply have the "55" in the code number. There is a difference in the blocks, as the 1st series block in the high water pump full pressure block, same as '54, the 2nd series block has the low water pump.
BTW, mine decodes as a Tonawanda engine plant, 235 1/2 ton truck application w/3 speed.

huh - i didn't know that any of the high water pumps were full pressure blocks. so, the '53 powerglide 235/full pressure had a high water pump?

Yes. But you'll only find those in Passenger cars with the 'Glide and the Corvette, which also use the 'Glide. Trucks and Passenger car with manual trans still used the low pressure engine. '54 was the only full year for a high pump full pressure 235, with the approximatly 3 month carryover into '55 for trucks.

learning learning, there's SO much to learn

Tom,

Don't think your intake is original.

Casting 3835527 is listed as:
40-49 ALL (exc. D-D, COE)
50-53 ALL w/216

By all the info I have here, it sounds like my engine is pieced together. Maybe should just go V-8 and be done. What a bummer. Have to step back and rethink. Thanks for all the input!!

Tom S.