The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop dual groove balancer for a 235

Hey guys,

Looking through the archives I've found 4 alternatives for getting a dual groove balancer on my 235.
Damper dudes
Damper doctor
BHJ Dynamics
Buffalo Enterprises (360) 652-7684

I'd like to know if there are any other alternatives, and what are people's experience's with these choices?

Thanks,
Leon

Sent you a PM with some info.

Dave

Another option is the balancer from a big truck with a Stovebolt and air brakes, from the factory they had a dual grove balancer.
I've seen one for sale a few years ago, guessing they could be difficult to find.

Grigg

I've solved the problem on occasion by fabricating a bolt-on addition to the original balancer assembly. A little lathe work and a spacer ring can add one or two pulley sheaves without looking for an oddball scarce item like a multi-groove balancer.
Jerry

That's an interesting idea, Jerry.
It didn't occur to me because I have no access to a`lathe.
But it might be less expensive to have that machining done than a new balancer. Do you have any drawings or pictures?

regards,
Leon

got mine from bufffalo int. for 212.00 with shipping.

Leon, I don't have any pics, but I'll be glad to mock up something in the lathe soon and shoot a few. You'll need a one or two groove bolt-on pulley about the right diameter, and a piece of steel or aluminum plate thick enough to make a spacer ring to get the add-on pulley spaced properly. The 235 balancer already has two threaded holes for puller bolts, but it's probably a good idea to add a couple more to make sure the driving torque gets spread out equally. Just get everything centered up for minimum runout, and fabricate something that fits your needs. I build an "underdrive" pulley setup for Chevy small block round track race engines to mimimize horsepower loss and avoid throwing belts off at high RPM. The crankshaft pulley is only about 4 inches in diameter and has a very deep groove.
Jerry

I have seen pulleys mounted by the puller bolt holes, but it seems that by using those to mount a pulley would deaden the damping effect of the balancer. The factory replacement balancers had bolts tightened in those holes to remove the damping effect to ease installation, with instructions to remove after installation.

Jerry,
Is this what you were describing?

regards,
Leon

Look at the construction on a balancer sometime. The pulley is riveted to the inner section that press-fits over the crank snout, and the damper ring is a separate, rubber-mounted piece. Bolting another pulley sheave to the front of the hub has no effect at all on the dampening action of the balancer ring.

Leon, the computer at work blocks out pictures, so I'll have to take a look later in the day, from home.
Jerry

I found a bolt on pulley in a junk yard car with add on air conditioning. I think it was an early 50's car with a 235. The back side had recessed areas for the rivets on the balancer. It bolted into the two threaded holes. I can send pictures. The ones in my computer are not very good but I could take some better pictures if someone is interested.

Send me an email or PM if interested.

I took a look at the fan clearance today. I don't believe there's enough room to put a pulley on the front of the balancer. It's a 55 1st series 1/2 ton. I guess I'll give Buffalo a call.

Leon

Hotrod Lincoln, I took a balancer apart and yes, if the pulley butts up against the heads of the rivets then it will work fine.

I looked at a couple of 216 balancers I've got around the shop, including one with a bent pulley sheave that's pretty much junk, and I believe I can drill out the rivets and adapt a 2-sheave pulley to the back side with a little tinkering. I'd probably use Allen-head bolts and red Loc Tite instead of rivets to assemble it, though.
Jerry