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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 | Hello, I'm a newbie and bought my first old truck a few months ago. It's a 1951 Chevy 1-ton with a 9' bed. I am very close to having it road worthy except for one thing. The rear pass side wheel is leaking oil from the hub and is flowing into the brake drum. So from what I can tell it seams that I have a worn wheel seal? I have never fixed this before and was looking for some advice before I start ripping things apart. From what I can tell, I remove the bolts on the hub and at that point I can pull the axel out? And then I figure there is a seal there that is easily removed and replaced? Am I out of touch with reality?..could it be that simple? Any advice is greatly appreciated before I screw the whole thing up. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | Yep, it's pretty much that simple to replace that seal.
You'll see what you have to do once you tear into it.
Your shop manual is a good source of info. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 | Thanks Ghostrider, I checked out your 49 pics. That looks like a 9' bed, sweet truck. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The shop manual explains the whole thing. I would suggest that you do both sides since you don't know the history of the other side. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It's not that easy. After you pull the axle, you have to remove the hub. It should be explained in the manual. The seal is in the hub. If you need more explaining let us know, & we will help.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 121 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 121 | Keenebolter Check to see if you have a grove where the seal rides on the axle housing if it is grooved,use a speedy sleeve if needed THEN Do the seals,THEN make sure that your bearings are adjusted correctly THEN, Make sure the AXEL VENT is CLEAR. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | But can you use a Speedi-Sleeve on an axle shaft? I had to search forever to find axles for my 53 which were scored. I know the Speedi-Sleeve as I put one on my crankshaft snout where the timing cover seal is. At the time I was told there is no easy way to restore the axles.
As far as seals go there are two brands. Chicago-Rawhide and National. One is flimsy with a shallow flange whereas the other has a deeper one. It is obviously the better but here is the hard part. I forget which is which! I think National gets the nod but if you can compare all the better. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 874 | The seal doesn't ride on the actual axle shaft on a full floating rearend. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Old 49 you are refering to a half ton. The brg. & seal ride on the axle its self. If the axle is scored there is a replacement brg/Seal that rides on a different area on the shaft that is not worn. Keenebolter has a 1 ton. It is a different animal.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 | Thanks everyone for your input. I have ordered the seals from Jim Carter and I am awaiting their arrival. I'm aiming to put them in as soon as possible (meaning... when my wife will allow me some time to myself). I'll post an update hopefully with the success of my installation...or with more questions. Thanks again. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 48 | Hello Bolters, My wheel seals came in today and the wife allowed me some time to play, so, I tackled replacing the seals. It was very simple. I am happy with the results except for one thing. While taking out the bolts to remove the axle, alot of oil poured out through the bolt holes. I read the manual and it says upon reassembly to "pack the roller assemblies with soft smooth cup grease". I said ok and did that, but what was with all the oil that poured out during disasembly? Was it the remains of the cup grease that turned liquid after 50 years or am I supposed to add some oil to that area.I don't see anything in the manual about adding oil or how to go about that. Any info greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nate | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | It was gear oil. Nothing to worry about, as it is normal to have it in the bearings. On a full floater, or any rear axle actually, the bearings are actually lubed by the gear oil in the assembly, it travells down the tubes to the bearings. The repack suggested in the manual is more of a pre-lube situation, and is a very good idea. I do it every time I have a rearend apart, full or semi float. You should check the fluid level in the rearend to make sure it is at the proper level.
Bill Burmeister
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