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Joined: Jul 2009
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Guys,
My '53 gmc with a '76 steering column and aftermarket distributor will die as expected when it's cold, but takes several seconds to finally kick off when I turn off the key. I can even turn the key off and take it out, and it still takes a couple of more seconds to die. I'm also having trouble getting it to crank without pushing the gas all the way to the floor when warm. I'm thinking that is the fuel filter but wanted to run the problem by someone who has more knowledge than me.
Thanks,
Jason

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Sure sounds like your timin is off a bit.


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Yep sounds like timing.

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You didn't say, but do you have an aftermarket fan? If you do that could be your problem. After you kill the power it goes from being a motor to being a generator. Just a thought.


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I'd check the timing first as suggested. Then I'd look at the carb being too lean, filter maybe.

LG


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Thanks for the info., guys.
Will try to find out what the problem is today and report results.
I have just a couple of days ago installed an aftermarket fan. I also think I may have a problem with my fuel filter. I'm putting in a new filter and will try disconnecting the fan wires when it's warm and before I try to kill it. Will also double check timing.
later,
Jason

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58, After turning switch to off and removing it you need to get out of the truck so it thinks your done for the day.
Seriously, To much advance in timing as mentioned along with a fast idle speed and maybe running to warm.
I've only known engines to want to do that because of those reasons. Back in the 70's when idle speeds were a little high they stuck on a idle stop solenoid which when the ign. tuned to off the idle speed was dropped even further to prevent run on.
This only points out that even with a properly running engine if idle speed is high chances of run on are good.
Dan


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did it do it before the fan? that answer would eliminate the fan as being the cause or not. I don't want to Hijack the thread but I would like to discuss the fan turning into a generator theory.


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53monster, Post your questions here on your own thread. These guys will help and jump on it like "a frog on a junebug". They have gotten me out of several 'pickles' over the years.


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I didn't really have a question, just the theory of a modern aftermarket fan motor turning into a generator seems illogical to me. I won't doubt it because I don't know though.


1953 Chevrolet 3600
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Hijack all you want, monster. Being a science teacher, I'm interested int he fan motor idea, too. Seems to me that even if the motor did turn, it would produce a/c current that would need some type of diode to turn it into DC current to keep the truck running. But like you, I don't know much about the topic and would be interested in learning from those who do.
I can't really tell anyone what it did before the fan. The few times I drove it I didn't notice the problem, but didn't drive it much because of the overheat problem.. It is still running too hot, and I don't really know why other than the mustang radiator being too small, although it was supposed to be good for 300 horsepower. I drove my truck for about 50 miles straight yesterday and it ran steady at about 212 degrees. I even tested it with my infrared digital thermometer and it agreed with my gauge. My truck doesn't idle high. It has been hard to restart when warm and even died a couple of times at a stop light. I'm about to go work on it and will try to give you guys some feedback in a day or two. I'm going to put a new steering gear and steering pump on today, and hopefully check on that temp. problem.
I'm also going to put some of that chemical in the radiator that drops the surface tension of the water. I used it in my '68 chevelle that I once had and it really made a big difference in cooling.
Later,
Jason

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BTW,
I used my infrared thermo to look at the temp when idling and it did stay perfectly at 185 degrees which is what my thermostat is. I could even see the effects on temperature of the thermostat opening and closing with the infrared thermometer. Pretty neat.
Maybe this bit of info. will help with the problem.
Thanks,
Jason

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Sorry,
One more piece of info. that may help. My lower radiator flex hose is very close if not touching the hard line going to or from the fuel pump. Could it cause some fuel vaporization that would lean out the carb? I know, I've got a lot of problems here! dang
Jason

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Well, here's an update......
I found that it was keeping on running when it was cold today. I pulled the fan power wire and it would kill perfectly. So I found another location to plug the power wire into instead of tapping into a fuse like the directions said and it works good now.
I think that particular problem is solved. Now on to the million other problems.
Thanks for the suggestions!!!
Jason

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what type of alt or gen are using if its 3wire it will keep running for ever my cooling fan did the same to my rie i used a continuess duty photobucket.com ball48pu solinoid to run my fan


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