The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Gray_Ghost, tesa, Johnny N), 88 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,076
Posts1,055,924
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#56311 02/10/2006 9:33 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 70
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 70
Has anyone sucessfully 'unfrozen' a rusty emergency brake cable by soaking it in diesel, keroscene, AT fluid, using electrolysis, or anything?

I will appreciate any comments whether this can be done or bite the bullet and buy a new one.

Thanks in advance,

52 Ted


illegitimi non carborundum
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 975
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 975
52 T,

I would bite the bullet and buy new ones. My 46 cables were in the same shape.

I figured that even if I got them moving again, they would not work right. From my bicycle days, good cables are the recipe for smooth working controls. On bikes, we always dumped old cables...

You can get the plastic coated ones for a reasonable price. If you are going to go resto-correct, the steel wrapped ones are going to cost you.

You can try E-bay..it is hit or miss on NOS stuff.

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 428
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 428

Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
I have gotten some free with lots of penetrating oil. But they will rust back up and freeze again.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 507
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 507
Not a bad price the Filling station wants $69.50 + shipping for a repo.


"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real"
"Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe"
41 1/2-ton, a work in progress
68 Shortbed stepside 327/325hp/700R4
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
C
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
C Offline
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
You can buy a cable lubricator at your local moto~cycle shop that allows you to ''inject'' (i use) white lithium grease INTO the inside of your large ebrake cable. after you get it unfrozen, Keep pressing the grease can button until you hear grease come out the other end. put a rag @ the far end first.
It works GREAT
about $12.00


Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 70
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 70
I guess there is no magic formula to 'un-sticking' them and keeping them reliable. Guess I'll bite the bullet and get a new pair.
Thanks everyone for their replies - the 'Bolt' comes through as usual.
52 Ted


illegitimi non carborundum
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25
Pat.
I had the same trouble with the parking brake cable on my 46 one ton. Cables were rusted solid at front attachment point. New cables were not available.
Here's my solution. Remove brake cable from housing.
On a bench grinder, carefully grind away 1-2" of the cable sheathing on the 'front end' of the cable. Work slowly and carefully, rotating the cable to remove the metal housing evenly. When all sheathing is removed, soak cable in penetrating oil overnight.
Next morning, lock brake end in vise and work cable loose with vise grips. When free, coat
in grease. Attach a length of 1/8" aircraft cable with crimp clamps. Use 2 clamps. Crimp in vise.
Reinstall, attaching aircraft cable to parking brake linkage. Use crimp clamp, or 'u-type'clamps to secure. Adjust linkage as necessary. Remember to re-grease the 'open end' of the cable when you grease the truck.
My fix has lasted for two years and counting.
Good luck.

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 49
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 49
A Word of Warning....
i had a cable rusted up on the '51 for a spell... kept fighting at it, finally got it to working. Yeah! me thinks, until one week later when i go to put it on and BAM! Broke it good! The rust had weakend it enough to where it finally broke. Good thing i was still holding onto the back up emergency brake (aka block 'o wood).
Brakes are important. Important enough for new parts.
seems that i am still learning that lesson.


Build 'em to Drive 'em

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0