The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Broken Windows.

I have a 52 chevy half ton (Just bought it yesterday so brand new newbie). I just have a quick question. How do you protect your door windows when you close the doors.

I know, some are going to say, don't slam it. But it appears that even when I try to go slowly, the window moves just enough for a potential break or crack. Is there some type of adjustement I can do ?

Let me know and thanks for your time.
Peioa

I've never noticed that was an issue with my 1951. Maybe the weather stripping around your window glass is missing or needs replacement. It seems pretty tight in my truck.

just watch it when it is hot especially dont slam the door ,especially with the window half down . my mother did it to my ole man's 40 30 years ago and we still about it from him .

I've never had an issue with it in my 54 3100 over the years, even during the times it was my daily driver.
Samantha

Virginiafiretruck's advice is on-the-money. He and Samantha most likely have good window seals.

If your windows rattle, you should consider installing window weatherstrip and seals.

Tim

+1 to virginiafiretruck

the u-shape track covers the entire travel of the window and helps to hold it in place- you will still get some side to side movement- but should not be enough to break it. the rubber rain trim that goes across the bottom of the window frame also helps when the window is open. all of the parts places will have them, I would check out links page.

If your glass does not have any chips around the edge it will have to strike a sharp, somewhat pointed object to break. Chips along the edge can be smoothed out with silicone carbide sand paper, the black stuff sold for sanding primer.

If your glass is loose in the channel replace the soft components that may have deteriorated over time. Cat whiskers and anti-rattle rubber are readily available but a PITA to replace.

Just to add my eperince with this, with new window guides the windows can be a bit stiff to move because they are so tight. Sometimes it takes a little silicon spray to ease the effort on the winder.

I will chime in here, like Czeckman and truckernix said. It is a real PITA to do. Look at all of the soft parts. If any of them look worn or are questionable replace them. I did my 52 last year, and you have to disassemble the whole door. Take pictures, measure, and don't throw anything away. You have to remove the vent glass assembly to get the window glass out. The shop manual is invalueable here. I purchased laminated glass locally and had it cut (take the old piece as a pattern) Tell them you want the edges beveled, also ask for the setting tape they just gave me the tape free gratis. It is a lot cheaper than buying glass online. If you do go with saftey glass it is thinner, and you either need thicker setting tape or have to use ureathane rubber setting caulk. One other note go slow and things will go well, also do a search and read up on the methodology. There is a wealth of tips and tricks in the archive.

I just did my doors. I replaced the door glass weatherstrip trim all around. (door channel, chrome beaded strip on the inside bottom of door, outside bottom door strip rubber, division post channel.) Right now my glass is tight and it will take a few up and downs before it loosens up even with silicon spray. But, I have no wobble or looseness. I purchased the parts from ClassicParts out of Kansas City.

The window seals that I got from Jim Carter and Chevy Duty (now Classic parts) were quite tight but they have loosened up nicely (no rattling and easy movement).

If you plan to paint your vehicle in the future, be careful using silicone lubricant. It is a substance that is hard to clean away and even a minute residue will contaminate most high-quality modern paints (and painting areas).

Tim