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| | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,279 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Hey guys. I tried the search function but I could not find a good answer to my question.
I have to have my 235 rebuilt out of my '50 3100 Chev. Now I could just start unbolting things and get out. But I was hoping someone could tell what might be the best way to get it out quickly with out disturbing too much.
Pull the hood and radiator? or Pull the radiator and grill and leave the hood? Pull the hood radiator and the grill?
Thanks I am just hoping to save a little time and keep it simple to put everything back together! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 321 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 321 | You are going to have to pull the hood and radiator. You will need the open space. The grille is up to you. I have gone so far as to take the entire front clip off a truck, but that was also because I was doing other work too. To keep it simple, pull the hood and radiator and leave the rest of the bodywork on.
1963 Chevy C20 Longbed Stepside 1978 Chevy K30 Custom Deluxe
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Thanks! Thats what I was thinking would be best to allow room for the hoist. Then I wont have to worry about alligning fenders and such.  | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 | I am with Curt, I have always removed the front clip. Leave the hood. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | So would pull the tranny with the motor or leave it in the truck? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Curt- I looked at your pics! Very nice looking motor. I would like mine to look that good once it is ready to go back in the truck... I have an oil filter to install and like how you did yours. Everything is very neat and tidy. I know I am getting a little ahead of my self but what is the correct color for this engine? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Correct engine color is light gray and if you do a search for engine paint some codes should pop up. Three speed trannys come out easily left attached but my understanding is that 4 speeds have some complications and are best separated for removal/install. Have fun.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | So would pull the tranny with the motor or leave it in the truck? with my 4 speed I had to separate the two so it would clear the cab coming out of the truck- if it is a three speed- I would think you could get them out together. I would follow the shop manual. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 149 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 149 | I recently pulled out my 235. I pulled the motor and 4 speed manual tranny connected, with no issues whatsoever. All I did was take the hood off and radiator, and all the little stuff of course.
Just make sure you have a good hoist because that inline 6 along with that tranny is a bit of a beast. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 502 | on my truck I when I tried to remove the engine and trans together I had a cross member that the engine mouted to that prevented me from pulling both without taking the cab loose from the frame and jacking it up. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | Rent a good hoist, preferably one with the in/out ability. It only cost a few bucks more and makes the job a whole lot easier.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 | If it is a four speed,you may have to remove the shifter.
My truck (49 chevy 216) required me to remove shifter and jack cab slightly to remove.
Now I am preparing to reinstall and I really wish they had made that crossmember removable like the rear. Hate to unbolt cab again,afraid of twisting,but the tranny without the shifter is 12 inches and the opening is 10 inches. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | I have a good hoist. It does not however have in/out with out pulling an adjustment pin. It does roll pretty nice with some weight on it though.
I have a 4 speed and I still have not decided if I want to pull it with the motor... I dont think I have a cross member in the way which should ease in pulling everything out should I go that route. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 465 | bigblue, You might want to look again,the back of my bellhousing mounts to a stationary crossmember and the tranny has a mount to a removable crossmember.
It's that stationary crossmember thats the problem.
Just-a-hacker | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | In my case, I removed the clip and cab (many times)....after that, r&r'ing the motor was easy.
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Well I got a replacement 235 from colletsbro that I should be picking up this weekend. Thanks Brian! I also have the old 235 pulled out and I will be working on cleaning up the engine bay. I'll be needing new engine mounts because my old rubber ones in the rear are pretty much shot! Anyone know a good source for them? Pulling the motor was pretty straight forward. I removed the hood and disconnected every thing. I had the head pulled to I didnt have to remove the core support of shroud to get it out. But I did remove them after I got it out because there is no way the new motor will go in with the head on and the fan shroud and core support in place. Hopefully I'll be able to start putting things back together on sunday if the weather is not too bad. Couple of pics: http://s433.photobucket.com/albums/qq59/BigblueL29/50%20Chevy/ | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 66 | I have a later truck ('66) so I don't know if pulling an engine is the same for mine as yours but... When I pulled the engine from my donor truck it was attached to a 3 speed overdrive trans. I left them together and they came out without a problem. My truck has a 4 speed in it, and I decided to go with that instead of the 3 speed. Shortly after I put the engine in my clutch went out, so the engine had to come back out. With the 4 speed, I had to pull the engine seperate. Then I pulled the trans out because I was having problems getting the engine to mate to the trans with the other clutch. But to get the 4 speed out I had to pull the shifter, then unbolt the bellhousing from the trans. The bellhousing then came out easy, and the trans came back and out under the truck. I had a permanent crossmember in the way of the whole thing coming out it one piece... as far as what to take off, I think having the whole front clip off is the easiest. Hope you get it figured out, good luck. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Yup I left the trans in place. I have been working on getting all the little parts cleaned and painted. The engine bay is done and looks great. 95% of my motor parts are painted and ready to go. Tonight I have a couple of buddies coming over to help me get the motor back in place and start connecting things back up.
I am pumped. I'll try to link up a few more pics when I get it in. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Well my buddies flaked on me this weekend. So I did not get the motor put in. Hopefully they can make it this weekend, but then again it will be halloween so we'll see.
Anyone want to lend a hand that happens to be in the Twin Cities area??
;-) | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 788 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 788 | all one has to do before removal of the hood is to drill a 1/8" hole through the hinge on eiher side and when you put it back on just insert a 1/8 pin in the holes to line it up ron | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | pull the hood, pull the front clip, pull the unit as an assembly.
Take Ron's advice above on any hinge (hood, door, etc.) as that is how its done for restorations when you build the vehicle complete, then tear it down for paint.
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2008 Posts: 43 | Well I pulled the hood and the front core support and left the fenders and grill in place. I also have the new motor back in and now I just need to work away on hooking everything back up and running new hard fuel lines, plumbing the oil filter, replace the heater hoses, and fluids etc.. but the hard part is done! | | |
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