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| | | Forums66 Topics128,205 Posts1,057,425 Members48,471 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | ok, so I finally ordered up my kit from lmc truck for the stuff that goes around the main/roll up glass in the doors.
I already have the rubber and the rivets for the vent windows.
Does anyone have any pictures or tips, tricks that would help me in this little adventure?
I have my 1963 shop manual, my 1965 supplement and my 1960-1966 assembly manual.
I'm just looking for all of the information that I can get.
Thanks.
-W | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | I've heard that trying to use the Rivets kit for the vent window is a real pain in the rear, you can use 3-M rubber adheasive to hold the rubbe for the vent windows in place. Also put a small amount of adheasive where you mate the window "cat wishers" against the metal of the door, this is so no rain/water will work it's way between the two and get in the door that way. Check your door drain also and IF you think you should make a cleaner hole DO SO. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | Woogero,
You do such a great job of documenting how you integrate parts into your 'bolt. I am looking forward to your "how to" on this subject.
John
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | lmc truck catalog I ordered window channel kit 38-995 for the '64-'66 chevy. In the print catalog and on the website catalog, they show the division bar with felt(38-5946) as being in two pieces, but a big long piece showed up in the box, with a different part number(a part number which does not show up in searches on their site). I called up LMC customer service about this and they say this about the big long piece: 'it is enough to make two'. This kinda irritates me tho', cuz that isn't what the diagram shows. They also couldn't tell me how I'm supposed to cut it, though I'm guessing I'll use a hacksaw. This looks to be a big future head ache in the works folks. So, pardon me if I show up cussin' here on the boards in the near future. -W | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2009 Posts: 99 | Cutting the stuff. Dremmel tool. Or my favorite (now) cutting tool is a HF die grinder with a thin metal cutting blade. Air driven of course. Dave
Dave.
What's the last thing a red neck says, "Hey guys watch this." What's the last thing a redneck hears, "Go ahead Bubba, you can do it."
Build plan: 65 Chevy one ton, 5.9L Cummins HO, NV5600 six speed, 2wd 1972-1987 IFS disk front, frame off restore/mod, custom dump/flat bed, Alcoa rims, Dana 70 3.73:1 duals drum rear, plush interior, Guards red with Marine Corps decals. Donor is retired 2002 Ram 2500, 194K miles.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | Woogeroo, I agree with most honorable "65 Won Ton".  Use a high speed die grinder with a thin cut-off wheel for metal. Much better than a hacksaw. John | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 21 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 21 | I used to own a 64 chevy c10 step/customed out. I replace all the same pieces in both doors on my own, I was 19 at the time (now 39, while it is difficult to redo your wind wings its not impossble you just need to take your time and not get frustrated. I am currently building a 63 panel and will need to do the same again. I've been working on and restoring these trucks for about 15-20 years so if you have any ?s let me know. [email protected] | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | Thanks for the advice folks, I'll use my dremel tool or my dad's rotozip for the channel cutting.
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Howdy Folks.
Okay, so I have the pivot rivets for each side, the rivet kit with the rivet tool to rivet the rubber back on.
The window channel kit mentioned above...
Now, what else do I need?
I am guessing I need some weather stripping adhesive. Do any of you have a recommendation for that?
-W | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | Woo,
Do you have a metal frame that goes around the glass? If so you will need some setting tape (electrical will work in a pinch) but he stuff thay sell at the car shops is correct.
Jake | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | Nope, no frames around the glass on my chevrolet.
The frame around the glass... was that a GMC thing? The earlier models or the suburban/carryall ? I noticed that option on the vendor part sites catalogs.
-W
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 1,181 | I always thought that at least both lines of the trucks had them from 60-63 I suppose it helped to better protect the glass from breakage. I didn't know if it carried over to the last 3 years of the series.
Jake
Last edited by V-6 Fix Modelman; 07/14/2009 2:07 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 47 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2009 Posts: 47 | just did my 65 Gmc same thing .just drill out old rivets and peal it apart,paint and replace . rubber is a bit of work to slide on but a little vasaline makes it go easy.when you atach vent window rivet get someone to help.hold the fixture while you peen the rivet . also mask any new paint when you peen rivets . I drilled out a piece of 1/4 x 1/4 piece of steel to put in vice to set rivet head in so it does not flatten head . check holes on vent frame and glase frame sometimes gm hade 2 different size holes here then you would need a rivet with a step in it. Hans | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | I fully understand why people go to one piece windows now.
This is a royal pain in the butt.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah.
-W | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | A piece of advice... if you get to this project... unless you have a garage where you can walk away from it and leave it...
... find a shop to do it for you.
What a pain!
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
-W
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 | If the window channel is like mine in the 53, and I'm pretty sure it is, you can snip the sides with your handy angle cut pliers. then snip the rest. as for the rivets, you need a helper to hold the dang thing still and use a big pointed nail for your first lick to get the rivets started folding out in the right direction.
OH and don't hit them hard. just lightly n you will get a feel for it pretty quick
Last edited by 53monster; 08/14/2009 7:34 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 Socket Breaker | | Socket Breaker Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 2,897 | I'm going through the vendor sites... looking for a stainless steel beaded window seal/cat whiskers. The fuzzy metal/cloth thing that snaps into the door itself, at the bottom of the door frame on each side of the glass. If anyone has a source on these, please let me know... in this thread, by private message or you can email me at: woogeroo@yahoo.comThanks. -W p.s. I got my driver side window back together... what a pain. The window goes up and down now though... p.p.s. I checked some old threads and I was told to get some stainless ones by other old truck folks... but I honestly forgot and I bought a 'kit' with everything in it... but they are rusting already, as I was told they would... that is what I get for not taking notes! :waah: | | |
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