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| | | Forums66 Topics128,019 Posts1,055,343 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 92 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 92 | I have a 1951 Chevy fleetline. I am swapping the original locked up 235 with a 58 235. I am using the 51 flywheel, bell housing and starter. The starter will not turn the motor (the motor does turn by hand). The starter does turn with voltage applied on the workbench. Seems like there is not enough torque on the starter? Is the starter bad? Is there a way I can fix it? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,644 | Did You check the battery to make sure it is charged , out of the truck it only takes minimum amps to turn starter when cranking engine it will take alot more also check cables , good ground all that stuff .
Pete | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Pete52 has it right:
The place to begin when experiencing slow cranking or no cranking is the positive battery cable and the negative battery cables and grounding straps/cables. They should be at least (most?) 2 gauge, but 1 gauge or 0 gauge or 00 gauge are preferred. Most replacement battery cables were/are 4 gauge (appropriate for a 12v system).
Second: weak battery
Third: weak starter
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