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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 40
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 40
I recently bought a 1966 k20 and I need some advice about some body work and other parts. I'm not looking to totally restore the truck, but I do want a pretty solid truck that looks nice.
As for body work, what should I replace with pre-fabbed sheetmetal, what should I replace with bondo or fiberglass, and what areas should I fab myself? It needs the following: rocker panels, cab corners, inner fenders, cab supports, floor board section along rocker panel, inside cab corners, area behind headlights, and probably more that I haven't found. (Would you suggest poking around in any other other areas that I'm missing?) Which areas would you do first and which would you do last?
I have looked on ebay and on Jim Carter's site, is there another place where they are cheaper (in price not quality!)?
I'm also looking to replace the shocks in the very near future. Any advice on where to buy good but reasonable shocks?
One final (for now) question. When I filled the front cardon joints with oil one side leaked pretty bad. Is this something to worry about and how would i fix it (assuming there is some sort of seal) if it is?

Any other key parts/areas I should be looking to replace in the near future? (The truck has been sitting since 1998)

Thanks in advance!


Last edited by wilkinst; 06/02/2009 2:57 AM.

Trey Wilkins
--------
1950 Chevrolet 3100 Five Window
1954 Chevrolet 4100 Dumptruck (Sold)
1957 Chevrolet 6400 Dumptruck
1966 Chevrolet K20 Longbed Fleetside
1966 Chevrolet C60 Grain Truck (Sold)

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Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 800
K
k10 Offline
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
K Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 800
You need to look at the overhang over the windshield. It is an area that is not commonly reproduced and can be the source of a lot of problems for the 60-66 cab. All other areas are available by catalog from sources like LMC. You say you are building a driver. Then LMC is your place.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/t.aspx?Page=16
They have every part you listed.
Retain your shocks and bring them to a good parts store and they can match up some new Delcos for you. If they look at you funny, you're in the wrong store.
The key areas are Brakes, first,second and third. When those work properly, then you can move to other mechanical systems. A shop manual should be your first major purchase. Reprints are available for a reasonable cost. You'll need the main 2wd book, and then the 4x4 supplement. I don't recall if you need a '65 book and a '66 supplement or what, but others here can answer that.

Last edited by k10; 06/02/2009 3:20 AM.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
The bottom of the A-pillar is another source for rust. There's no reproduction parts for this era truck yet but I massaged some from a 67-72 truck and you can't tell the difference,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 40
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 40
Thanks for the info, the area above the windshield looks fine, but the bottom of the a pillar is pretty rusty. Any reason I couldn't use fiberglass or bondo to fix hidden areas that aren't structural? Besides getting all the rust out before I put it on, is there anything else I should do to prep the metal I'm putting it on?

Surprisingly enough the brakes are perfect even after sitting so long!

Thanks


Trey Wilkins
--------
1950 Chevrolet 3100 Five Window
1954 Chevrolet 4100 Dumptruck (Sold)
1957 Chevrolet 6400 Dumptruck
1966 Chevrolet K20 Longbed Fleetside
1966 Chevrolet C60 Grain Truck (Sold)

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
for fibreglas to stick to metal for any real length of time you need to use a special resin, and even with that don't count on more than a few years IF you've gotten rid of all the rust .... not much point using it if you want the truck to last and you have the skills to do it right

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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