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| | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 12 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 12 | Only thing left on chassis before blasting is rear spring pins. Welded a nut to slide hammer adapter similar to shop manual tool. Neither budged and nut threads (fine) stripped. Help!
Should have mentioned it's a 57 3100. Pin can't be driven toward the chassis, and no room to get behind it to drive it out.
Last edited by Dave R.; 05/24/2009 5:16 PM. Reason: clarify
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I don't know what type of truck you have but on my 1 Ton, there is a lock bolt. After removing the lock bolt I was able to drive the pins out from the backside. I didn't use a puller. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 163 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 163 | Hello!
The last time I had to do that I used an air chisel, and from what I remember they came out without too much problems. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 230 | as mentioned before just remove the tapered lock bolts ,take nuts off and drive out with a punch carefully so you can reuse them .if the main pins are froze in the spring or hanger or shackle ,year's ago they had a adaptor that you took out the grease fitting and screwed in were the fitting was and used a slide hammer to coax it out .but i haven't seen one for awhile . | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | I had one that was a booger! Used just about every penetrating fluid with no success. Heated it, drove right out. Have fun and good luck
Dan | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | The hard part for me wasn't the pin, it was the lock bolt. I used a little heat to encourage the bolt to move on out. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 113 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 113 | On my one-ton, the frame has holes that line up with the spring hangers. Once the lock bolt is removed, you should be able to either drive them out from inside the frame, or drive them in from outside the frame (whichever offers the easier access).
Lane | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 12 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 12 | That's what the shop manual shows. My adapter used the lock nut instead of the small grease fitting threads. Seems like that would easily break. But the nut adapter didn't work so maybe I'll try the smaller adapter. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 12 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 12 | Did you heat the pin or the housing? BTW I'm not too far from you, just south of Amsterdam. | | |
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