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#536760 05/12/2009 12:29 AM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 102
C
Shop Shark
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Bought a replacement shock tower out of LMC. I painted my frame with POR-15, which needs rust to bond. I sand blasted it with glass beads, then soaked it in a bucket of water and set it out. No rust. Sand blasted again, figured it may be the oil still in the new metal. But still no rust. Tonight I sat it out on a milk crate to sit through the night dew/rain. But it doesn't look promising. Anyone else have this problem?? Any ideas??

cshamel #536763 05/12/2009 12:36 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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Posts: 14,522
I have never heard, or read, that POR15 NEEDS RUST to bond. In fact this is the first time I've heard it said that way.


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Achipmunk #536770 05/12/2009 12:44 AM
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From POR-15 website....

APPLICATION PROCEDURES
Surface preparation: Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and
sandblasted surfaces are also good. Surface must be dry and free of
grease, oil, or other foreign substances.

I guess sandblasted will work, but where I bought it recommended rust as well.

cshamel #536786 05/12/2009 1:28 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
.... it probably will "encapsulate" rust but its just hard for me to cover stuff that I know is bad. I realize no one will probably ever see it but I also wanted a fairly smooth surface so I sandblasted and then brushed it on.
Thanks for setting the record straight. I know I have read all about it but still can't believe it said that rust is BEST.

Either way its good stuff and tough. I guess, like so many other things, it just depends on what your looking for in the end.

Let us know how it turns out for you.


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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

And, what does the acronym POR stand for (or, at it originally meant this)?


Joined: Dec 2001
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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OOOK,I give up guys. I should have re-read before I said anything.
Tim, lets see....reckon that could be Pour Over Rust smile


1937 Chevy Pickup
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1952 Chevy Panel
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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what they're saying is NEW metal doesn't need POR, and on old metal, surface rust makes for a better bond because then the chemical action it's based on [rust conversion] takes place, and the surface iron oxide is converted to iron tannate or some such - it's passivated, so it has some surface protection, the rest of the protection coming from it being a good primer/sealer .... they are not saying to paint over corrosion, the expanded flakey stuff, and they're not saying it won't work on clean metal .... and really clean metal won't necessarily show surface rust quickly [especially overnight], although sandblasted metal would likely soon show oxide forming in the pits if you looked at it under a magnifier

Bill


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Flxible #536906 05/12/2009 11:21 AM
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J
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If you use POR15 Metal Ready, you can you can go over new metal.
Por 15 sticks very well over sandblated metal.

JeffL #536946 05/12/2009 2:43 PM
Joined: Jan 2002
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,254
It sticks great to my fingers. Is hard to get off, too.

My fingers are skin with no rust.

Go figure


Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-

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