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1950 One Ton. I better edit my signature right after I post this.

So, you know how you're supposed to adjust your driver's door, so if you close it it won't lock.... And how you aren't supposed to lock the passenger door from the inside, because the key won't unlock it from the out side....

I was driving home, shoved my tool bag against the passenger door, which locked it I guess, got out of my truck on the drivers side, instead of sliding across the seat, cause the tool bag was in the way. Locked the drivers door, and as I slammed it, noticed how the passenger handle was pushed forward. Dang.

So, what's the slim jim I need look like?
My friend has AMA, so I'll likely get her to get the truck opened. But I'm guessing this won't be the only time I do this. If I'm not around when the truck gets unlocked, does anyone have a pic of what the device looks like?




Christopher
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pull the lock out of the window H-channel, and remove the rear window if it is a 3-window, or the corner glass if it is a 5-window. Should take only a few minutes. I have used a plunger to pull on the glass and to keep from dropping it, however a glass suction cup would work best.


The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
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Extreme Gabster
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How did you manage to get the door to latch with the lock engaged? It won't do that on a '52 and later door.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
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I don't know if it's supposed to. If you slam the door hard and fast enough, like when its pouring rain.... Like here.

I'm going to have to check that out, this weekend. I'm still waiting for the tow truck guy. I do remember it saying something about this, seems to me that it said "kid, if your door latches aren't adjusted right, this could happen to you"

Ahh, the lock on my weather strip is on the inside, and its pouring rain, and cold and dark.

Fortunately I am sitting inside on my couch.


Christopher
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Gosh Mr. lang, it's only 82 degrees here. Next time you lock yourself out do it here. I did the same thing in a 51 back in 69. I called a locksmith...


~Jim
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The tow truck guy's gone now. Well , actually the second one. The first guy couldn't do it. Dang, I've got to get one of those long coated wire things. I'll bet I could find dozens of uses for it...

I see now what to do. Best not to let this happen though.




Christopher
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Last resort Christopher.....Cut the rear cab glass rubber.
It might be cheaper than calling a locksmith!
P.S. Why did you install the rear with the lock strip inside?
Was it for looks?


1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
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i know this won't help you now but in the future. take the lock off the passenger side and move it to the drivers. i did mine years ago. it is an easy swap. ron


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I thought the lock strip was supposed to be on the inside.

The "lock out" was free, because of my friends AMA card. I should get her some flowers or something.

For now, I'll just be more careful.


Christopher
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Easy

You could have crawled under the truck. Unhooked and taken the battery out. Opened the cover over the battery in the floor. Rolled back the floor mat. Then taken a coat hanger to open the door.

Next time you know what to do.

Hehehe

Go McGyver


Dennis
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You guys from Texas have all the answers huh?

I can't believe I never thought about that.


Christopher
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Opinions is a better word for this.

I am glad all worked out.


Dennis
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Texans continue to amaze me. I think that is the right word.

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Don't you wish we were closer to Canada?

You could enjoy armadillos. Land oysters in a half-shell.


Dennis
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You eat those things? No way.

Lotsa hot sauce?

oops better shut this one down..back to the spoon. wave

Last edited by mapleleaf; 05/07/2009 11:10 PM.
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Originally Posted by Mr. Lang
I thought the lock strip was supposed to be on the inside.

There's nothing wrong with it being inside,it's just generally fitted to the outside.
If you were to use a 'chrome'decorative lock strip it would be a bit pointless having it inside the cab! grin

Re;The "lock out" it goes to show it's not what you know...but who you know.thumbs_up

Last edited by jockbolter50; 05/07/2009 11:15 PM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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And I always thought the only use for power door locks were to save labor. You may have convinced me to go that route. grin


~Jim
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I just filed the battery door removal under very useful information in my brain. Now if I can just pull it back up if needed.

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Originally Posted by oldbluetruck
Easy

You could have crawled under the truck. Unhooked and taken the battery out. Opened the cover over the battery in the floor. Rolled back the floor mat. Then taken a coat hanger to open the door.

Next time you know what to do.

Hehehe


Go McGyver


Dang Dennis, how many trucks have you stolen? grin


~Jim
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Please guys, this forum is for business. Take the off topic banter to the Greasy Spoon. Thanks.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

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1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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I've watched a expert with one of those vinyl covered special bent rods before. The last time I needed to call for one, the first one gave up and left, and it was the second one who managed to get the door open.

This was on a modern mini-van with power door locks and she ended up simply pushing the unlock button with her bent rod.

Now if you think buying one of those vinyl covered special bent rods is the right answer please tell me where you are going to carry it. When I had my little experience both the keys and the remote opener were inside the van. Where I left them.

Probably the same place the vinyl covered special bent rod would have been if I owned one.

I enjoyed the battery cover suggestion. If your truck is like mine you would not mess with the battery cover though, you would just poke something up through one of the rust holes in the floor.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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