The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop HOW MUCH SHOULD IT COST TO REBUILD A 1955 GMC 248

SO I BOUGHT A TRUCK OF A MAN, HE SWEARS IT ONLY HAS 35K MILES ON IT... LOOKS LIKE IT MAY BE TRUE BASED ON HOW CLEAN THE INTERIOR OF THE TRUCK IS. HE DID ALOT ALREADY ON THE TRUCK TO RESTORE IT BUT THEN LOST INTEREST AND LEFT THE HOOD AND FRONT FENDERS OFF, AND LEFT THE TRUCK OUTSIDE IN THE RAIN, AND PUT A PLASTIC BAG OVER THE CARB. THE PLASTIC BAG DETERIORATED, AND WATER GOT INSIDE THE ENGINE AND HAS RUSTED OUT MY CYLINDER WALLS.
I CALLED AN ENGINE REBUILDER WHO QUOTED ME 3K OR MORE TO REBUILD IT FOR ME... SEEMS KIND OF HIGH. MY QUESTION WOULD BE DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A REPUTABLE ENGINE REBUILDER NEAR PHEONIX, LAS VEGAS OR LAS ANGELES WHO COULD AT LEAST HONE MY CYLINDERS AND MAYBE INSTALL NEW PISTONS AND RINGS IF REQUIRED IN MY ENGINE JUST TO GET THE THING RUNNING DECENT FOR AROUND 1K? OR AM I DREAMING? I JUST THINK I SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET IT REBUILT FOR AROUND THAT... MAYBE IM DELUSIONAL?

first let me say a 248 gmc is not a 350 chevy where the motor parts are almost given away because of the number of sales of the parts. the 248 could cost as much as 3 to 4 times as much just in parts. now when it comes to machining it cost more because it takes a different setup then the chevy v8 and different cutters. if he has to buy anything special to machine your motor and a motor that he may never see again do you expect him to eat that cost?

as far as doing the hone it thing if you take it apart and don't want to fix it right. i would not touch that one on a bet. did it once the motor lasted 2 weeks. but it went around town i messed it up not that to owner was too cheap to have it done right.

Patrick's is located near Phoenix and he's one of the true Stovebolt guru's. He carries a lot of parts for Chev's and GMC's and last I heard has a restoration shop going. I'd give him a call and discuss options with him

I haven't talked to him in a couple of years so I hope this is still a good number: 520-836-1117

No self-respecting engine builder will risk his reputation on a patch-up job. The cheapskate customer sort of forgets that he's the one who insisted the pro cut a bunch of corners, and he's going to cry the blues all over town about how that guy at the engine shop ripped him off! If you want a shadetree job, buy (or borrow) a service manual and mess it up yourself. That lets those of us with some integrity work for the people who are willing to pay for the 40-something years of experience some of us bring to the job.
Jerry

How do you know the extent of the rust in the cylinders? Is the head off so you can see in there? Have you pulled the drain plug to see what comes out? Is the engine stuck? If you don't have one I suggest you get a shop manual and try to "overhaul" it yourself. If you have the necessary tools, space and skills. Buy/rent/borrow a cylinder hone and clean up the cylinders. Clean them thoroughly of all metal particles. Properly install new rings, put it back together and see if you can get it running. You may be surprised. Seriously the $3K quoted is NOT out of line for a pro-job. Good luck!

We have a shop in our area that will grind the head for around $50. I shopped around here and could not find a shop to take care fo the work for under $3k. yes I said $3k. I did find (didnt do it myself) but the shreve type buy a whole engine type places actualyl sell these engines too and its cheaper than the rebuild of yours. My local NAPA sells them too for way cheaper than rebuilding your own. theres a stovebolter in oregon who sells and ships rebuilds to.

THANKS! STILL A GOOD NUMBER I GAVE A CALL AND LEFT A MESSAGE FOR HIM.... I APRECIATE THE INFO

Hey new guy.....Please knock off the caps, will ya?

Napa sells 248 rebuilt engines?

Back in the 50's and 60's we had a boring bar that we could bore engines without removing the block. We had no use for it once we started running Cummins. If the water didn't fill the crank case and the crank and cam is still good that may be an option. A set of Egge pistons and rings would probably cost $300. I bought some just a couple of weeks ago that cost $50 a hole. Patrick probably charges around the same. I was at his place back in January. His son is pretty big in the business with him. Don't wait for them to return a call. Keep trying. He may have a block that doesn't need boring. There aren't many 248's around because they were only used in the 2 tons and 54 and 55 pickups. 55 second series used a mount that bolted to the side of the block while the older ones used a mount that bolted to the front of the block. The late one will work in either series, but the older one requires a little rigging to fit in the new one. But they are usually cheap when you find them because most people what more power. I recently bought a rebuilt 248 short block on eBay for $700. It was rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder and the guy was glad to get rid of it. I also ought a good 270 for $600 complete on eBay simply because the guy wanted a S/B in his truck. If you're willing to travel, rust buckets from the rust belt sometimes run good, but the bodies are dying from cancer and they sell cheap. Chances are good your needs to be bored, but maybe not. I would pull the head and remove the pistons. I have had some that looked pretty rusty that I honed and ran them 50,000 miles. If you can get down to shiny metal by honing to shiny metal and stick a ring in the hole and the gap is ok, it will run. A complete rebuild will be $3000, but if you take your time you can probably get running for under $1000. Then if you decide that you think the truck is worth a $3000 engine, you can still do it.

GMCUSTOM,

First, turn your caps lock off

Second, building an onld I6 is about double building a V8 simply because of volume running thru shops. You can build a mild SBC for about $1500, and the old 248 will cost you about $3-4k.

If you can do the assembly your self, it may save you about $400, however then if there is a problem, it would be on your shoulders vs the builders.

However like crenwelge pointed out, if you look, there are deals on ebay and craigslist. That takes more time and patience than money,however you need to have the money in hand.

Scott

my bad, NAPA sells 235's warranty and all. they do not sell 248's sorry.

I had to spend alot to do the last 248 It is cheap if you don't mike the parts as everything looks just fine until you get the autopsy. But the money spent is well worth it. I am willing to discuss what I have learned if you are interested.

GMCustom - as one other individual posted, it is customary to type on these forums in the format taught in English class. When you use all caps, you are going to "turn off" some of those who might give you the best answers. Just a hint.

As to your question: please understand that a "reputable engine builder" IS a reputable engine builder because he/she does quality work. Honing cylinders and installing only rings and maybe pistons is NOT doing quality work.

Yet it still may be possible for you to get this engine running for less than 1K dollars. Enroll in an adult education class in a local tech school in an engine building course. The school will have hones, micrometers, magnafluxing capability; and hopefully an instructor that can guide you through doing all of the work yourself. If water got into the engine, you will, in addition to honing cylinders, AT LEAST polish both the camshaft lobes and the crankshaft journals, and install new bearings. Not doing this is a recipe for very quick failure. Yet if you are willing to undertake the job yourself (tech school) you can do the labor, and simply be out the time (a semester) and the cost of minimal parts (assuming that the engine can be repaired in this manner). Minimal parts would include engine gasket set, rings, seals, bearings, oil pump, water pump (or kit); and tuneup components (points, plugs, condenser, coil, distributor cap, wires, hoses, oil, filter(s), probably a carb kit, etc.).

Take the above list and do some shopping. Determine what you will spend on parts. Check adult education costs at your local tech school. Now you have at least an idea of minimum costs.

The adult education class is also beneficial in you will gain knowledge, and possibly make friends with similiar interest.

My 2 cents (maybe a wee bit more than 2 cents ☺).

Jon.