The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Bench Bleeding question

So I follow the directions regarding bench bleeding - my M/C came with little plastic fittings & hose supplied - nice touch!

Step 1 is no problem - remove the output fittings that go to the PPV and replace with the plastic fittings & hoses which are routed into the fluid.
Mission accomplished - got all air out & the unit is bled with the hoses into the reservoir.

So what then - you just disconnect the plastic couplings and refit the lines to the PPV?

I assume purpose is to ensure there is no air in the cylinder - disconnecting the output will drain fluid after that, but as long as the opening port remains submerged, there should be no impact to the cylinder - is that correct?

When I go to bleed complete system, I have a vacuum bleeder incidentally. Makes life really simple - was a good investment.
I have the MightyVac brand that operates off a venturi from compressor

I left the plugs in place 'till I had all my hard lines bent and ready to install,only at the last minute did I remove the plugs and quickly fit the brake pipes.
Fluid loss was minimal and I simply bled the system as normal.
I did it the old fashioned way, i.e. no fancy vacuum bleeder!

The purpose of bench bleeding is to bleed the MC while it is in a level position. That way there won't be any air trapped that won't get pumped out. That's a good idea for the MCs that are mounted on the firewall as most seem to be sitting at an angle and not level. However if your MC is located on the frame it should be level and therefore bench bleeding not needed.

"...and therefore bench bleeding not needed."

Wrong

Go for it then...

You can mount the master cylinder in the truck and attach the brake pedal linkage and follow the "bench bleeding" procedure as described by D'Ecosse in the above post. Pressing the brake pedal slowly and watching for all the air bubbles to disappear. Then remove the plastic plugs, attach the steel brake lines and then bleed the entire system. This method has worked great for me many times, especially when the master cylinder is mounted under the floor. If the master cylinder is mounted on the firewall you will need an assistant to slowly press the brake pedal while you are tending to the master cylinder on the firewall. An old time mechanic taught me to do it this way.

i bled my [new] whole system while mounted on the truck W/O any problems or issues. No bench was bled upon...

it worked great w/ a coke bottle and tube

I did the bench bleed anyway, not a big deal

Installed the master & new hard lines yesterday.

I ran a new 1/4" from the 'rear' output of the PPV to the OEM TEE on the right frame rail that was originally common for both front & rear; plugged the output of the TEE that previously fed the front.
(I 'stole' the plug off the extra port of the PPV to use in the TEE.) I actually left the rear lines as-is from there, they were in great shape.

I decided to run individual lines to the front since the PPV had that capability with two output ports - it appeared much simpler than running per the OEM set-up with a TEE at the front right corner and a line across the front back to the left side. Less fittings this way!

So I ran one-piece direct line straight down the left frame rail to the front left caliper;
and the other followed the 1/4" line over the forward transmission crossmember, then down the right frame rail to the right front caliper. I had to put a union in that run since I was using pre-made lines - longest I could get was 5'.

Bleeding was a snap with the vacuum bleeder. After I did all 4 corners, I actually got the Mrs out to work the pedal so I could do a couple of strokes of manual bleeding at each node as a final step, just to be sure I was good.

Just the vacuum line to hook up now - I actually created a new post with some questions on fittings for that.

Incidentally I have an unknown part left over from the kit - this was actually in the same bag as the bleeder kit (i.e. the fill bottle, bench bleeding fittings & hoses) - this is a metal ring, about 2" OD x 1-1/2" ID x 2" tall (guesstimates - did not actually measure) - any clue as to what that is for?

D'Ecosse It looks like your making good progress.
The metal ring sounds like a spacer for the pedal pivot.
If you were converting from a clutch to auto the spacer would replace the clutch pedal lever.
I didn't get one with my kit so I simply cut off the arm and retained the pivot section. It does exactly the same job.

Ahhh, that makes good sense Jock - I'll toss it in the tool-box for a rainy day - you never know what's down the road!
Now that it will stop better, moght get the urge to make it go a bit swifter!

If your anyway like me you better label that spacer cause when the time comes you won't remember where or what it is.

I won't remebember where what is?



(they say it's the second thing to go!)