The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cab removal procedure

I'm about to remove the cab on my 53 Chevy. One side appears to be lower in relation to the frame. Not a lot of current info on the search base. Any traps I need to avoid? Any measurements I need to record for replacement? All help appreciated as this appears to be a big deal.

Thanks

It's not really a big deal Dan. As i remember, i think there are only 4 points that hold it down. Two at the front just behind the firewall and two 3/4 of the way back. When your ready to put it back on there will be a little more work, in the way of spacers/shims. Cecil.......

The one thing is if your cab is in really bad shape you should brace it before removing it. The two rear montings are on shackles. If you were to loosen the front mounts you could tip the cab from side to side and the rear shackles would not resist it. That is how it handles frame twist. If it is sitting tilted a little bit, it usually means that the front supports on the cab are failing.

Bracing is a good call, one thing I forget about every third time, I'll unbolt the pedals but forget to unscrew the starter rod. It will do a number on the hole if it doesn't clear on the way out.
Mongo

I disagree completely.

If the cab is bad, repair it on the frame and then remove it. Pulling a cab that is not structurally sound is only asking for nightmarish problems later.

That is the really correct answer and if you brace the cab, you want to have it sitting level first. The problem with doing the repair with the cab off is that there are no references to the rest of the structures.

The last two suggestions are correct and should be followed. Woody's bolt was more rust than steel and he talks from experience; just look at his pics.