The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop What chsssis is recommended for sitting 49 cab on?

I have a great 49 cab i would like to set on a more modern chassis. I've heard ths S-10, 69 and so forth. I know there will be some modification but which one is recommended by you guys?
Thanks

I'd recommend a '49 Chevy Truck chassis. But then I like old trucks.

I'll let the guys in the HIPO shop answer this one.

Hold it Cletis, you've got to be more open minded here give Don more options. I recommend Chevy chassis 1947 2nd through 55 1st.

I suppose most guys think about swapping chassis in order to add the IFS. I would think it easier to weld on a front clip than to make the many adjustments in a chassis swap.

A 49 sounds good to me too.
It's pretty simple to work with the original frame and just change the drivetrain and parts you want to.
A whole body swap to a different frame sounds like a lot of work, and for the most part I don't think it is a good idea.

As a side benefit the cab, fenders, and all that stuff fits the original frame pretty nicely.

Grigg

Well said!!

the only reason to swap chassis is to gain 4x4.

all other reasons are not good enough.

the OEM chassis is 10x easier to do work to.

if you MUST swap chassis-ONLY do it for 4x4. ive done it several times and the easiest is any shortbed regular cab truck chassis(not blazer) from 47-1987-same wheelbase throughout.
i repeat-ONLY for 4x4... any other swap is PITA, wont look right, wont ride right and will get worse MPG and...

PM me for my phone if you want an earful. ive done 3 swaps onto diff frame. all only for 4x4. ive done clips and more... OEM frame is best.
mark

oh-PLEASE dont do S-10. see above.

'47 to 55 1st.

No need to swap chassis to get a 4x4 setup, the original chassis is 4 wheel leaf spring, like most older 4x4s. It would be far easier to swap the axles onto the existing frame/suspension, like the Napco trucks were. There really is no difference in swapping for a 4x4 setup than there would be for a 2wd with IFS.
Also, the wheelbases are not the same '47-'87. '47-'55 1st were 116", '55-'59 is 114", '60-'72 are 115", '73-'87 are 117.5".

Don,

I have done both the S-10 as well as a custom IFS. the S-10 route is the way to go only if you have an S-10 chassis handy and a front clip handy and you like to tinker and make things fit. The three major down sides is the shape of the S-10 frame's rear kickups leave you with minimal bed depth unless the cab is mounted 8" above the frame, the requirement to run 2" wheel spacers on the front, and the radiator to steering interference issue. If I could do it over I would use a stock frame on the truck or build one from scratch because it has less headaches

If your desire is a simple IFS, there are the pinto derived Mustang 2 units (doesnt work with the I-6), and there are the GM-Metric chassis unit that I developed that uses S-10 or G-body front end components and has worked with most engines

Here is a link in the Hi-Po area

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=46889&Number=523668#Post523668

and here

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=72952&Number=523662#Post523662

Scott

Don,
    Which route you want to go depends on a lot of factors. What is your final goal? Is all you have a cab at this point?
    If your goal is to build a street rod that drives like a modern truck with IFS, Disc brakes, a V-Motor and auto trans. I recommend the S-10 route. I resell a kit that a buddie of mine in MN designed and builds. We include the pieces in the kit to take a complete S-10 Chassis (82-04) Strip it down, attach the body mount kit, then set the body on. Our kit also includes pieces to reuse the S-10 Brake components, Steering Column, Brake pedal, Gas pedal, and Wiring harness. The kit also includes motor mounts for the V8, 4.3 V6 or early inline six and a transmission cross member for 700R4 or Std. A.T., or TH 400.
   To address the bed depth issue that Scott mentioned our 2 inch drop kit actually drops the cab, running boards, and front clip down 2 inches but leaves the bed setting on top of the frame rails, we include a filler panel in the kit that fills the gap that is created between the splash pan and the bedside in front of the rear fenders and the rear fenders are dropped 2 inches lower on the bedsides. It also adds to the hot rod look of the truck as the rear of the bed sets higher on the back of the cab, it's a different look.
   We've had trucks with a Rustang 2 (Pinto 2) and the F*rd parts always bothered me, A Camero sub that I liked but never drove enough to build a firm opinion on, and a late 70's early 80 sub that rode great but had the wide track issue that looked funny to me. I drove S-10's for years and always like the way they drove.
   Your on the right track getting various opinions before you get started, keep in mind that your looking at a lot of work with any solution even ours. Especially considering your starting with just a cab. Like Scott said if you like to tinker and have done fabrication work before the S-10 swap can be done yourself, the benefit of the kit is we've done the tinkering and smoothed out the rough spots ahead of time for you. I always recommend before you spend any money on any solution get going on your body work and in your case get anything that needs fixed on your cab done first, corners, cowl, etc. So many guys buy all kinds of parts and then get into the body work and realize the work required to do the body work and that they don't have time/knowledge to do it. Then get mired in that and don't move forward.
   We've also done several complete chassis for customer including runners shipped to their door. I've also always got a couple stock chassis setting around from customers moving to S-10's as well if you decide to go the stock frame/sub route. If you go that route you may want to look in your local area for a complete donor truck to save on shipping.
   Don't get me wrong, I love the old trucks in all their forms, bone stock, mild custom to full bore street rods. I've got a bad habit for big trucks too. I'm just happy to see them on the road however they get there.
Steve

My daily driver is a 49 on an S10 chassis with 350V8 and 700r OD tranny. A great driver, both city and highway. I used the AD Engineering kit so I could get it on the road quickly. There are issues to work out with most any way you go.

Don didn't say what the purpose was for changing chassis, therefore we must assume it was to simply ride on a modern [more modern] chassis. That is where I choose to keep the heaver and possibly stronger AD chassis. I see no advantages in making a swap unless like has been stated, to add 4x4. It is my impression that it would be easier to welt a front clip on in order to add IFS than to mess with a complete chassis change.

actually, doing a frame swap, such as the S 10 chassis, would be a much better way to go that clipping the oe frame. By swapping to a frame that was originally designed to have ifs, and is already reinforced for it (S 10 frames are factory boxed to the front cab mount) plus you get factory geometry, something that can be tricky by clipping, especially if you don't have a chassis jig. Seen plenty of crooked clip jobs, and have had plenty come into the shop wanting me to try to make it drive straight. Plus, with all of the aftermarket suspension parts available, getting the ride you want is easy with the S truck chassis.

hence the reason I supply boxing plates with my IFS kits.

Hey Don,
There are critical issues that need to be addressed before making the decision to change chassis. First, what are you wanting the truck to do, are you going to use it as a daily driver, work truck i.e. pulling trailers and such, hot rodded etc. After you determine the use then you will get a more definite answer to your question. Leaving your question too open ended you will get answers that may not reflect the intent of your question.
I ended up changing my chassis to a 78 1-ton for my 51 GMC because I intend to use it to pull a gooseneck horse trailer and hopefully another truck one day. I had also thought about a travel trailer when I retire( a long way away from now) I also had a drivable 78 that was easily accessible for the donor frame that aided in the decision. I have thought that if I did another ton truck I would try to modify the IFS on a newer truck to bolt to the original frame. I like the heavier trucks because they are trucks and not cars. I have used the search feature and the gallery to see what others have done. Below is link to another post about frame swaps.

another post about frame swaps

The ultimate goal is for you to have another AD truck on the road and carrying on the legacy.