The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine Squeeking - BAD need help

HELP!!!

Well my first winter is over and I started up my truck 216 (low pressure dipper) and unfortunately, I have a really loud squeek coming from what I believe is the front cylinder. Almost like the piston is scraping along the cylinder wall. The truck runs just fine. When you give it gass the squeek seems to go away but only returns when it goes back to an idle. The longer it idles the louder the Squeek.

What's wrong?

Do I have a stuck piston ring? If so, how do I "un-stuck" it?

Do I have a problem with the oil delivery system - not getting lubrication to the cylinder?

Other probelms???

Any guesses or advise is greatly appreciated.

Tim

Maybe it's a bearing going out in the generator?
...or the impeller in the water pump is rubbing on the water pump housing?
I don't know how to check either one, though.

I like those better than my guesses for sure. Any other thoughts?

I could just remove the belt - stopping both from turning and would know if it is them or not.

There isn't that much to choose from on these old engines.
This is one of those times that a mechanic's stethoscope would come in real handy.

You can pinpoint noises much quicker with one. Maybe a length of small diameter hose would work in a pinch.

Good luck

ps- don't run the engine too long without a belt, or you will have a major problem.

Could this be a lack of oil to the rocker shaft? I saw this once a long time ago.

When you rev the engine it would push more oil and cause the squeek to stop. I don't remember if your 216 has a oil cap in the valve cover or not, but if it has one, look inside and see if you have an oil flow when running. Oil should run out the little hole on the rocker arm. You may have to pull the cover and look at them all.

Seems I am getting consistent suggestions from VCCA forums and here. I am going to remove the belt and run it to rule out anything internal (hopefully). I'll post the results.

I heard a rod bearing do that once, I would have bet ANYTHING that it was a ring, the guy loosened a rod cap emery clothed the rough jounal, put the same rod bearing back (the owner needed it to use quick) and I personally saw that truck run for another 2 years.......figure that one out.

There was a post quite a while ago where loud squeaking turned out to be a dry rod bearing. However, the motor wouldn't stay together too long if this was the case. I had my damper start squeaking at one point. It wasn't really loud and only did it at idle. I use clear plastic 1/2" hose to listen to my motor. I put one end to my ear and get as close to the object as possible with the other end. I find that is a very directional listening tool.

Sometimes a vacuum leak can make a high pitched squealing noise. It would be more at idling speeds. After you try the belt thing pour a little oil in the spark plug hole. It its a dry cyl that will quient it for a bit. With a dry rocker arm the noise will go off & on.

Unfortunately, I ruled out the generator and the water pump. The belt is new so it is in good condition and that can be ruled out as well.

I also removed the valve cover and everything is moving freely. I am draining the oil now and it does not look like there is any contaminants in it. It actually looks pretty clean. I sprayed Kroil in the cylinders to sit while I go get the oil. I will also look for Marvel Mystery Oil to try that.

Stay tuned. Thanks for all the input thus far.

Tim

The oil is changed and the Marvel Mystery Oil has been put in the oil as well as in he carb to stall it out and let it sit a while (as prescribed by a post on VCCA)and on the bottle. I struggled to get it to stall out (and I poured a lot in there). I sent a smoke screen throughout the neighborhood! Good things everybody is indoors today. I'll let it sit until this afternoon then go back and try it again.

The engine itself has about 5,000 miles on the re-build. I purchased it from a guy down in SC who purchased his truck from a guy that rebuilt his truck to stock (in TN if I remember correctly). I was able to talk to the guy that did the rebuild and he was just sick to think that the 216 was removed from the truck. The guy in SC wanted to be able to drive his truck on a daily basis and on long trips (at highway speeds) so he pulled the rebuilt 216 and put in a 235 and an updated rear end. I have put just over 200 miles on it last fall when I got everything pulled together in my truck. No problems with it last fall.

I hope this works and that it does not turn into a much larger project.

I tried the Marvel Mystery oil and let it sit for a few hours. Smogged the neighborhood again when I started it. The Chirping has been greatly reduced; however, it is still there. The engine is not idleing at a slow sewing machine pace with only a little chirping. I'll putz around a bit more next weekend - especiallyy since it will be a long weekend.

One a positive note, I did get my rebuild windshield regulator installed. It's pretty nice to be able to crank that baby in and out without giving it a hand.

Thanks again for all your input. I'll post next weekend with the results of further tinkering.

Well I ended up replacing one of the rods due to the bearing goig bad. Ends up I was able to get the rod out from the bottom side so i did not have to take the engine out or take the head off. I checked the babbbit on all the other ones and confirmed that they still looked good. I am extremely happy to report that this morning I put everything back together and I just finished test driving the truck! No more chirps, squeaks and no more knocking (other than what is probably normal on a 216). After a trip around the neighborhood and a spot check of everything at home, I took the truck on a county highway for a couple miles. Everything seems to be working.

Tim

Good job Tim, thats what it's all about. Just trying to make these things run, and stay running.

1953 265ci squeaked like no other I posted here but to no avail..then I took it to a guy who said he would look at it. Turns out that when I had the OKki bearing replaced that person jacked it up using the clutch shield. The shield was pushed against the flywheel. I tried everything else thought it was distributor shaft, main bearings ect. Was a simple inexpensive fix.

" . . . that person jacked it up using the clutch shield. The shield was pushed against the flywheel."

Was that person a professional, or a friend?

Did you check rockers like Mike suggested .My 235 after rebuild short block with the original head rebuilt by machine shop who put it together and decided not to put the pipe linking the block to rocker shaft in thinking it did not need to . After driving for about 100 miles started to squeak .

One rod failing on a 216 shortly after a rebuild is probably a "preview of coming attractions" unless you (or the rebuilder) took the time to aim the spray nozzles in the oil pan while the engine was apart. The troughs under the rods are only there for lubrication at idle. Once the engine speeds up and the oil flow increases, those nozzles squirt a stream of oil all the way across the oil pan. If one of more of them aren't aimed properly, the stream of oil will miss the dippers, and the rod bearing will be starved for lubrication. There is a very scarce fixture that's used to aim the nozzles, but there's a very effective "shade tree" method to accomplish the same thing. Remove the oil pan and clean it thoroughly, then scribe an "X" directly across the pan from each nozzle, at the same height. I use a carpenter's square at the pan rail to establish the location. Attach a garden hose to the oil pipe and turn the water on. Bend the nozzles until each stream of water hits the X. Clean and dry everything and reinstall the oil pan. Now the rods will get lubed at cruise speed as well as idle.
Jerry

You do realize that the original post is from 2009! Great info on aiming the nozzles though. Thanks Jerry!

OOPS! Didn't notice that! Thanks!
Jerry

I second checking nozzles aim.

Ed

Oh well, he knows what to do now, or at least the survivors of his estate do.