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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 15 | I thought I took more than enough pics/etc when we took things apart, but here we are scratching our heads... Got the motor back from the engine shop, and there are two small holes in front of and below the breather that we can't figure out. They go all the way through and aren't threaded. Posted a picture with them circled in red here - help? '56 chevy 235 engine
Last edited by 56napco; 04/04/2009 4:22 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 239 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 239 | It's dark out, so I'm not going outside to check my engine, but I bet that upper hole is for a dsitributor hold down. If nobody else answers I'll check mine tommorow.
Devin
If you can't hose it out it ain't a truck
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| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 |
That is the road draft tube hole (the distributor hole is over to the left). My engines have round head machine screws in those holes. I think those screws hold some baffles or other pieces of sheet metal inside the block (it's been a while since I have been inside a block).
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 293 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 293 | Yep. That's correct. A rectangular-shaped, sheet-metal baffle plate is mounted inside the block through these holes. I just installed mine last week. Page 8-29 of my '58 Shop Manual says "Check to see that the crankcase ventilator baffle (attached to the block at crankcase breather hole) is not damaged and is securely bolted in place. Turn the crankshaft to see that the camshaft lobes clear the baffle".
To install the baffle, you will need to remove the oil pan and flip the engine over. The baffle slides between the cam shaft and the block. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,516 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 1,516 | norcal49er has it. Its a metal baffle to keep oil from blowing out the road draft tube. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 15 | Ouch. Thanks guys. Not sure what I'm going to do first - pull the engine and drop the oilpan, or head up to the machine shop that I left a couple grand at a week ago to do this job and knock the owner in the head...
Thanks for the replies. "Two steps forward, one step back" - seems to be a theme with these restorations (at least for rookies like me). | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 829 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 829 | I think the pan will come off without pulling the engine. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 96 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 96 | Remove the tie rod from one side and the pan will come out with the engine in place, unless there's something different about NAPCOs that would be in the way. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 15 | Sounds good - I'll take a look before I back the cab off and get the cherry picker out.
I'm not sure the engine guy is going to "find" this baffle (I found pictures before the tear-down, it was definitely there when I dropped it off because I can see the heads of the screws you guys are talking about). I just left him a message. Ugh. | | |
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